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I dunno what that is all about, Tin. I just opened CTOA under IE (I normally use Firefox) and didn't see any problems. I run Microsoft Security Essentials for my antivirus program.
I'm with Bob on that one – I try not to use the brakes on hills, as the chance of losing traction is just too good for me to feel comfortable about it. Of course, I'm pretty timid when it comes to things like that, after a few close calls when I was a kid on the farm. I'm way older now and don't heal up nearly so fast as I did when I was 14. So no more side-hill gymnastics, turning on hills, things like that.
5 quarts sounds about right for the front end – no brakes to soak so a bit extra wouldn't hurt much anyway, I don't think. Too little would be an issue, though.
Generally on Chinese tractors the dipstick for the hydro and the gearbox/drivetrain is read screwed out, just resting on the lip of the hole.
I prefer a zip disc in a 4-1/2″ angle grinder. That little hand crank saw is pretty tedious if you have a lot to do or long lengths to split. It is the best bet for splitting the BX that has the wires already in it.
When mixing EMT and BX, be sure to get the steel BX, not the aluminum, unless you want electrolytic corrosion. I'm sure you already know that, being a mariner, though.
I'll second what Bob said – get the CT scan and perhaps an MRI, too. Each test determines different things so you really need both. Get thee to a neurologist – the orthopedic docs only see bones, not nerves. Pain comes from nerves, not bones.
Like Bob, I've been down the road with back injuries, surgeries, etc. I have chronic pain and take maintenance pain medication of the codeine derivative type and it helps – doesn't do it all, but enables me to work. I don't like it, but there it is. We do what we have to do. When the back was at its worst, the only thing that worked at all was morphine and/or Demerol, injectable.
In this day of modern pharmaceuticals, there is NO reason to endure lasting pain. Any doctor that won't deal effectively with your pain needs to be replaced. Period. That bit of advice comes from my wife, a nurse with 35 years experience and no tolerance for doctors who don't treat their patients properly.
If I'm not mistaken, one port is fluid flow from the pump and the other is return to the sump. Those ports are not active until/unless the flow control valve located just below the front of the seat is closed completely. The TPH control lever then activates the flow to the rear remote. The ram will extend under pressure and return by gravity only – there is no provision for flow to retract the ram. These remotes are usually used for dump trailers where the weight of the trailer will collapse the ram.
If you're working the tractor hard during the summer there in Glendale, I'd suggest the heavier 90W140 gear oil, though the 80W90 will probably do okay, too. I've been using the 80W90 in my 304 Jinma transmission and front drive here in the tropics with no problems at all.
