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The manual for my 304 calls for Chinese gear oil, which translates to 80W90 gear oil in US designation. The hydraulics call for AW32 or AW46 hydraulic oil, depending on temperatures encountered. I'm in the tropics so I use the AW46 with good results. The engine gets 15W40 premium grade diesel engine oil.
Using hydraulic oil in the gear case would be a big mistake – it simply is not compounded to stick to the gears, which is necessary in these straight-cut, splash-lubed gearboxes. Use the good gear oil.
All mechanical contrivances that need lubrication will perform better and live much longer useful lives if lubes with the right stuff, and have the lube changed on an appropriate interval. To do anything else is tantamount to throwing away the investment you made initially. Kinda like eating junk food and smoking for your body.
In an email to me you described a problem (push in pedal, nothing happens) that sounds much more like a sheared roll pin in the linkage – have you checked those thoroughly?
Look on the Koyker Loaders website for directions on removing a loader – it applies to most all of them in general.
Don't forget to hook the two quick connects on the engine back to each other when the loader is removed – if you don't you'll deadhead the pump and blow it up. Pretty much guaranteed.
There is one roll pin inside the bell housing, but the most common ones to break are on the outside of the tractor and you just have to crawl around and check each and every one. Do this first and you may not need to remove the loader.
Have you ever cleaned the injectors? Do you run injector cleaner in your fuel?
How fresh is your fuel?
Just a few thoughts.
On my 304 the PS pump looks just like the hydraulic pump for the lift box, so I stick with hydraulic fluid. These tractors use a straight pump and cylinder system for steering, unlike a car that uses a high displacement pump and a recirculating ball steering system.
Thanks for the confirmation Tommy – as the years roll by I get less and less sure of a memory I could formerly have depended on for nearly total recall of most anything I'd ever read. I think I may have overloaded my memory card or something.
The front drive shaft is coupled to the transfer case by six balls that engage the splines. They are held in place by a snap ring that is known to break, letting the balls loose. When you drop the drive shaft, the balls fall on the ground and you lose them.
If the balls aren't lost, just put them in place with some heavy grease and replace the snap ring and you should be good to go. If you lost the balls, I believe they're either 6mm or 8mm diameter – measure the grooves to check and get new ones or use short sections of the appropriate diameter grade 10.3 metric bolt shaft just long enough to fit.
Check the diagram in the parts manual and you'll see what I'm talking about.
Rich
Larry,
Welcome back! I use this link in my web browser to go directly to the new forum posts. Works for me!
Rich
Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales has all the manuals you'll need – there are four in all: tractor manual, tractor parts book, engine manual, engine parts book. Get them all.
