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Well, I don't want to seem like I'm being disloyal to Hal's great forum or anything, but there is a guy who posts persistently on http://tractorbynet.com/forums…..-tractors/ who, (according to him), knows pretty everything there is to know about those tractors since he once owned one. He doesn't hang out here, (fortunately), so you might try your question over there if you don't get much response here.
That said, most of these Chinese tractors are pretty similar – did you check under the front of the seat to see if there's a knob there? If so, that know adjusts the TPH flow rate. When screwed all the way in, the flow is diverted to the rear half-remote and the TPH is inoperable. It needs to be opened a bit to allow the TPH to work and the degree to which it is opened controls the speed with which the TPH arms drop back down. If that know isn't there or doesn't help[, then I've exceeded my pay grade and can't suggest anything else.
On my tractor the alternator was such a wimpy little thing, putting out 15 amps, and the voltage regulator was a complete POS, that I replaced it with Delco 12Si (integrated regulator) two-wire type putting out a whomping 65 amps – what a huge difference in the lighting! I can now run two extra pairs of work lights, all headlights and anything else I need, including my 2000 watt inverter, without worrying about croaking the battery.
I got the 12Si for about $50 online and it bolted right on after I swapped the pulleys. Needed a better belt so I used a multi-link and all is good.
Just a suggestion if you are sure your alternator is bad – did you check its output voltage directly at the terminals when at 1200 rpm or higher?
Rich
ANFO – Ammonium Nitrate & Fuel Oil Much less brissance than cordite , PETN,TNT dynamite or even black powder. Just a big, slow push that heaves them up out of the ground, ripping the roots loose in the process. Also the material of choice for most quarry operations as it will bring down a hanging wall without advertising to everyone in the three nearest counties that there's somebody to blame for their leaking cistern or cracked foundation.
When you put in your order for the fertilizer, tell 'em Timothy McVeigh sent you and ask for the special bonus – (three hots and a cot courtesy of Uncle Sugar.)
So, is the garage done yet????
Just because a PHD comes standard with 6″ and up bits doesn't rule out using smaller ones, Len. I see no reason at all why you couldn't whip up an adapter that would couple a standard 2″ wood auger to the output of a PHD. I guarantee that even a 20hp tractor will have enough horsepower to bore holes in stumps that way.
I would certainly suggest that you couple the auger to the PHD using some sort of slip clutch or other torque limiting arrangement or you will wring the shaft of the auger like a washrag if you hit a hard spot. Well, if you can find an auger with a 1″ shaft and core you might not damage it, but a standard one is more like 3/8-1/2″ which is a bit puny for a PTO drive.
Personally, I prefer ANFO for stump removal. Much quicker!
When I had my sign company in Phoenix I had a guy who drilled my post holes for me on my sign installations. He had an auger mounted on a jeep that he could get into even the more difficult places and he never failed me, even in the miserable caliche they have in that area. I tried to dig just one hole myself and after three hours in the Phoenix summer sun with a digging bar I had gotten down maybe ten inches – made paying Jeff $20/hole seem like a screamin' good deal! The caliche there was about like trying to dig through rawhide. I figured the only reason it didn't have any rocks was because it was just one big one that filled the whole damn valley.
That will probably work Ben – my only concern would be that it doesn't allow the pump assembly to “float” on the PTO shaft to accommodate little alignment issues. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it hasn't gotten knocked off of true and it will most likely be fine.
If you see any tendency on its part to shift around any you might want to switch to the chain like Bob Rooks uses – I'm just a mite leery of anything “rigid” that doesn't have to be and chain allows the assembly to shift around freely to seek its own alignment but not fall off or torque around and scramble your hoses.
The 80W90 gear oil will be better than none at all, I guarantee that!
Looks like you're well on your way to having a back hoe.
Ben,
Yep, the TPH is the only thing holding the backhoe, unless you go to a frame-mount hoe set-up. You need to keep that in mind when deciding how hard to work the hoe. That hoe is probably small enough that it won't destroy the TPH even if you do get vigorous with it, but why take a chance? Sometimes it is good insurance to just rent a Case 580 or a track hoe when you have big work to do.
The plug on the top of the PTO pump's gear case is where you lube the gear case. I'd guess it uses something like 80W90gear oil, but others would know better. It is not where you prime the pump – you'd do that through the pump inlet hose,if necessary. However, if your hydraulic sump for the hoe is above the level of the pump it will prime itself, just run it slowly at first with the outlet hose disconnected and put to run into a bucket. As soon as you get flow, shut down and hook up the outlet hose. You should be ready to go, I think. As previously noted, I don't have a backhoe so others will know better than I do.
Foggy and cold? You can keep that, thanks! I hate cold.
Rich
Generally, the hydraulic lines are stiff enough to keep it from slipping off the PTO shaft, but something to hold it there wouldn't hurt – a bungee cord or piece of chain would do fine, I think.
Half the ones I've seen with a torque bar for the anti-rotation the guy just
used a pair of ViseGrips to clamp it to the drawbar, or let the torque
keep it there. (grin) I'm not saying I recommend that, of course!
