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Ben,
What the others are talking about on the mounting of the PTO pump is a torque limiter – a means of keeping the pump assembly from rotating when the PTO turns and the hydraulic pressure makes the whole pump want to spin around. There's nothing magic about this. Most guys just use a piece of chain or a steel bar to connect the pump's gear box (the red part) to the tractor frame. Something as simple as a piece of 1/4″x1-1/2″ flat bar about 16″ long that is bolted to the gear box and sticks out far enough on one side to hit against the drawbar frame would do the job fine. So would a chain. Your sheet metal might work, if it is heavier than about 3/32″ thick. If it is too thin it will get twisted up when the pump is under load and allow the pump body to turn and damage your hoses.
Do not run the pump dry or deadhead it.??????????
Yes, that is correct – do not do those tings or you will b e buying a new pump almost immediately.
If you run the pump with no fluid in the reservoir and pump, the internals of the pump will be trashed in short order. The suggested method is to fill the sump with oil, then pour some oil in the pump itself (through the outlet and/or inlet) and then start it up slowly to give it time to purge the air form the system. Note that this is for an open-center system – a closed center system would probably have different guidelines but I don't know them.
Deadheading the pump means running the pump with the outlet blocked – this can happen if you have quick-connect hoses and the outlet hose is not connected or the connector has an internal failure so it doesn't open when connected to the other half of the connection. The pump will be trying to pump the fluid against complete resistance and thus trying to compress an incompressible fluid. The case of the pump and/or the seals will be blown out. If the seals are blown out they can be replaced,but if the case splits you're screwed.
One of the most common hydraulic pump deadheading scenarios is when someone takes the FEL off their tractor and fails to hook the hoses from the pump to each other. With the hoses open, the ball checks in the connectors are closed and the fluid has nowhere to go so it deadheads the pump and blows it up. Only take a few seconds of run time to do this, too. You don't get a warning, in other words.
I don't think back-flow preventers regulate pressure, Bob. But putting a 1″ section of pipe in the middle of a run of 1-1/4″ will certainly create a pressure differential and the flow rate will be limited to that allowed by the smaller diameter conductor, for a given pressure. If you use the spring-poppet type of back-flow preventer, as is common in plumbing use, it will drop the pressure by the spring rate, since the water has to overcome the spring resistance in the forward direction. A swing-flap type back-flow preventer won't have that issue, but they're not as positive acting in this sort of application. (And over half the time people don't pay attention and put them in upside down.)
In the air circuit on my stationary pneumatic forging hammer I use the gravity swing-flap type as it seems to produce a quicker, “crisper” on/off cycle, which is better for that application.
If you don't have a key switch you can also hook it to the output from the alternator, but if you do that you should install a 12v zener diode in parallel with it so it doesn't run fast when the alternator is putting out more than 12v.
You don't necessarily need a tractor mechanic – a diesel is a diesel, as far as the fuel system is concerned. A guy who works on old diesel Mercedes could do it, so could a guy who services diesel generators or boat engines. Bob Rooks could do it if you lived next door to him…
I could do it if I knew what I was doing. 
My best guess is that your timing is off. You might want to go back and verify the pump timing, making sure that the #1cylinder is the correct number of degrees before top dead center when the #1 injector line spills. Also make sure that you don't have the actuator for the compression release flipped – that will cause you to have no compression and thus no start. Verify all the little things and if they're absolutely correct it should start. You could take the injectors to a diesel shop and have them checked pretty easily if you have any concerns that they might be fouled and not popping or not delivering a proper mist pattern.
Diesels are fundamentally simple – if it gets proper fuel/air mix at the right time and has compression it will start and run – it just can't help itself.
I can't say that I'm necessarily a good neighbor, Bob. I mean, if I'd known exactly which of those 200 pairs was mine…
The best method for high limbing is the Parker method, I believe.
You whip out your Parker pen and checkbook and hire it done by a young guy.
280 hours and you've only changed the oil once? You're asking for problems. The oils (all of them) should have been changed when the tractor was first put into service as the Chinese factories ship them over with crud oil in them. You drain, flush and refill with new US-made oil before you run it. Then the engine oil should be changed after about fifteen hours – that gets rid of manufacturing dross like sand, metal shavings, etc. At 50 hours you change the motor oil again, also the filter. After 100 hours you should probably change all the oils one more time. After that, every 50 hours you change the motor oil and every 200 hours change the others.
Oil is so much cheaper than a rebuild.
The clutch should have been checked/adjusted when new, and again at 50 hours. Do it now. It only takes an hour or so to block up the side of the loader and remove the one tower to get to the inspection cover.
Did you adjust the valve lash and re-torque the head gasket at 50 hours? If not, do it now.
Well, VI law has the same provisions – called Tampering with a Utility, a high misdemeanor. V.I.C. T-14, SS1263(b)(2) is the appropriate cite, as I recall. However, ya gotta remember that at that time I was a police lieutenant and pretty much the guy in charge of this end of the island. I thought it over very carefully and finally decided not to arrest myself.
Actually, if you look up the language of the law here, you'll see that there must be an intent to damage or receive services without paying. My intent was to repair, not damage. No criminal intent.
Down here, particularly after hurricanes, things are a real mess and there's never enough people to do the necessary work to restore the infrastructure in a timely manner. If you happen to live out in the bush at the “end of the line” as I do, you can wait months for services to be restored. You gotta be resourceful if you're going to survive. That's why I have two generators, my own climbing spikes and harness, etc, etc. I also have gotten to know many of the utility and telephone linemen in my area and managed to mooch a few necessary parts and pieces to effect emergency repairs. When they do get to my area I give them a list of what I've done and where so they can check it, and I assist them with whatever they're doing at the time by doing chainsaw or loader work, hauling lines, or whatever – and providing a few cold beers at the end of the day. Those poor guys get a lot of abuse from people for stuff over which they have no control whatsoever and really deserve better. I treat them well and they treat me pretty well, too. Small-town sort of rules, y'know?
I just wish I wasn't getting on in years – every time I strap on the climbers I know I'm going to be stiff and sore as hell for the next three or four days and I swear I'm never gonna do it again. Then the next time comes along and I'm strapping the damn things on again. I'm really getting too damn old for this shit.
Indeed, I recall a post or two about the bolts in the fuel banjo fittings – one of them is actually a pressure check valve and if installed in the other banjo the tractor will not start. The one with the check valve (Rooks knows the proper name which I can't recall), looks slightly different – has a double head or some such. The purpose of the valve is to prevent fuel from flowing back from the injectors or some such, I seem to recall – without it functioning properly insufficient fuel is delivered to the cylinders and the tractor will not start or will start after priming but not run for more than a few seconds. Easy enough to switch the two banjo bolts to check it out – if both bolts are identical then the one with the valve may have been substituted by a plain one and needs to be replaced with the proper bolt.
Nah, it only take a bit over ten hours, Bob.
I had to do it once years ago when the local public works crews chopped a downed cable in half to get it out of their way for cleaning up debris after a hurricane. Where I was located, it would have been months before the 'phone company go to it, so I went out and did it myself – generator, soldering gun, heat shrink tubing and magnifying glass. Took me about ten hours, but I did get my phone working again. Six months later the phone company came by and put a nice splice box over my work and called it good. Lazy weasels.
When you live in the VI you just gotta be resourceful sometimes.
