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At least it was just YOUR phone line and not a 200-pair cable! That does get pricey.
Sounds like you have some work ahead of you, though not too bad. At least backflow valves are cheap.
Do what Tommy says. My 2007 304 will get a bit fussy if left in 2wd for long periods and it works for me – also I have to ease the clutch out gently or have the tractor rolling a little bit sometimes to get it to slip into 4wd. Often it is impossible to get it to go if the tractor is in neutral – the gears need to be moving a bit to get lined up and slip in.
Out of curiosity, what is your top engine rpm at full throttle? I keep thinking my governor may be set a little low as mine only gets up to 1900 rpm, though the tach shows a bit more to be the “green” zone for the PTO. I have the TY395 3-cylinder engine.
Tin asked, “When is the last time you saw an air compressor tank explode?”
1961, and I was very fortunate not to have been injured. I was a 13-year old kid with a penchant for building things but no knowledge of even the most rudimentary engineering, of course. I cobbled together a homemade compressor from a scrapped refrigeration pump, an old washing machine motor and a salvaged pressure tank from a well water system. No pressure switch and the tank was one of the old riveted ones designed for probably about 20 psi. One day I plugged it in to charge it up and got distracted by something – I happened to be in the other building when the tank ruptured, blowing the end cap through one of the wooden garage doors. The parents were not amused at all by the damaged door, though it didn't even occur to me until years later that I could easily have been killed. I wish I could honestly say that was the only dumb thing I've ever perpetrated, but….
Ah, the hubris of youth!
It does sound as though either the fly weights or the rack is sticking. The lubricant for the IP should be either motor oil or a non-detergent oil of comparable weight, according to what I've read. I've also red that these pumps/governor assemblies aren't really user serviceable, other than changing the oil regularly. There may be some fudge room in that, but I wouldn't know where to start – Bob Rooks would be the guy to know, probably.
Based on things others have reported, you may well need to go to greater lengths to clean the whole fuel system if you actually do have diesel bugs. From the fuel tank to the injectors themselves, everything needs to be cleaned scrupulously and completely purged of old fuel and then treated with a biocide. That may wel mean disassembling the tank so you can boil it out, clean/replace the in-tank filter screen, clean/replace the screen in the sediment bowl, replace the inline filter, etc, etc. Those bugs are pernicious little bastards and really hard to eradicate completely. They can also corrode metal parts, resulting in the sort of sticking you think you're experiencing.
If it were mine, I'd start by flushing the whole system out with some solvent that won't destroy any seals in it – diesel fuel or, preferably, #1 white kerosene. Do that a couple of times and crank the engine with the compression release pulled to take the load off the starter somewhat. Then refill with the proper amount of oil. Some pumps have a dipstick and others just have a fill hole (usually the breather cap) and a witness hole where the oil pees out when its full. Some pumps have one drain plug on the bottom of the governor housing and others have that and another one on the bottom of the IP housing itself. If you don't have the manual for your engine you should get one so you know what you're dealing with. Affordable Tractor Sales should be able to fix you up with the manual and any parts you might need.
I definitely would not recommend taking anything apart on that assembly without guidance from someone like Tommy at Affordable or Bob Rooks. Those guys actually know something and I'm just repeating things I think I've read.
There are some real goofy things going on, for sure, but not much stranger than what went on years ago, probably. I grew up in Colorado, where more people have been killed over water than al other causes combined, according to something I read years ago. Western water law is vastly different than the riparian right that prevails in the East, and that only adds to the confusion and tension. You can have a spring on your land but if the guy downstream from you puts the water to use first, he then has an essentially inalienable right to that much water forever. Should you do something to deprive him of the water you are dead wrong – or maybe just dead.
The whole thing with the waterways of the US used to be just the “navigable” waterways, as I understand it, but the Corps of Engineers seems to have decided to expand that to every little pissant trickle of water anywhere, anytime. Seems like a bureaucratic empire-building scheme, to me. I don't think Obama had squat to do with it, though I know the Republicans like to use him as the whipping boy for anything they can. That's because they're trying to suck the last damn dime out of every little guy in the country so they can keep on living high.
Ah well, end of rant.
Rooks writ. “…they had more time and money than I did.
“I'll add to that they the Corps is also waaaaay short of common sense. Makes for a bad combination.
No, there's not a shear pin. The front drive shaft is connected to the output from the transfer case by a few ball bearings engaging grooves in the shaft and receiver. Your parts book should show it. The balls are retained by a cover that is held in place with a spring clip. Sometimes the spring clip fails or slips and then the receiver can shift, allowing the balls to fall out – no four wheel drive after that.
When you remove the rubber cover on the front drive shaft, do it on a smooth floor or a tarp or something so you can find the little balls when they drop out. Then all you have to do is reassemble the thing with the balls in place – some very stiff grease will hold them in place while you get things back together.
It may require that yo un-couple both ends of the front drive shaft to remove it. I had to do that on my JM304 in order to get the clearance to force it out. Yours may be the same.
Hope this helps.
Now that's got me thinking about a mod for my little tractor. No laser stuff since I don't have the bucks even for a transit, much less a laser. I do like the notion of the box scraper on the front and I think it would work on a wheelie, too. No real heavy duty work, of course.
I'm going to have to give this some serious thought.
