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Boy, can I relate to that! Blew the radiator on my shop truck yesterday. Both head gaskets blown, too. Rats!
Oh, I wouldn't be concerned about us getting all PC here, David. Most of us have enough trouble just being normal.
Not sure where you're coming from with that post, yocsr. I don't see where anyone here has tried to poke fun at anyone. All I see is an exchange of ideas and information, certainly nothing that requires any apologies. Now, using pejorative terms like “idiots” might be getting into a place where apologies are called for, though most of the regulars here are both very intelligent and easy-going enough not to get twisted out of shape over small stuff.
There's no need to try to extract every last millimeter of length out of those pieces, Doc. As I noted earlier, the difference in contact area between a ball, which contacts only at a microscopically small tangent point, and a cylinder even two millimeters long is truly huge – like a hundred times the area of contact. Make it easy on yourself. (grin)
You don't need a real hard steel for the rods, as the contact area is orders of magnitude greater than with the balls. I'd just get some 8mm grade 8.8 or grade 10.9 metric bolts with adequate smooth shaft to cut the slugs from and you'll be good to go.
Or you can use tinyurl.com to shrink it.
That's interesting, David. I've never seen that stuff. Somehow, I'd think its being conductive would kind of defeat the purpose when it comes to preventing dielectric galvanic corrosion, but I guess it doesn't or it wouldn't sell. Learn something new every day, thanks!
Actually, electrical grease, better known as dielectric connection grease, is not conductive. It's purpose is to prevent dissimilar metals in close proximity from setting up galvanic corrosion through tramp currents carried by moist air, water and/or dirt. By coating the exposed parts, it also excludes air and moisture so that corrosion is retarded or eliminated. Corrosion can ultimately bridge gaps and set up galvanic corrosion. At the point of intended contact, it is squeezed out sufficiently that it presents no obstruction to the free flow of electricity.
Fundamentally, it is pretty much just expensive Vaseline. Which, by the way, works extremely well in the same use. Most of us remember Cosmoline, that wonderful crud that the military coats weapons with so that recruits have something to clean off. Cosmoline is just a low grade of Vaseline that to some degree hardens with age. Vaseline is an excellent material to coat steel surfaces to prevent rust, and is considered food safe by the NSF.
I'd suggest you fill the transmission with diesel fuel or kerosene and drive it around in all the gears for a half hour or so and then drain it again. That should get most of the crud out so you're not contaminating the new gear oil you put in. The only thing I now that will get all the water out is acetone, but that would get expensive to use as a flush , to say nothing of being extraordinarily flammable. I don't know if using a fuel de-watering additive would be of any benefit as they're mostly methanol which isn't miscible with the diesel fuel you'd be using as a flushing medium.
