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I don't need a metal detector – I have a riding lawnmower that finds all the metal for me. Finds big rocks, too. Why can't the damn thing find gold, instead?
I don't think there are any sprockets in the Jinma gearboxes, just gears.
It sounds as though you may have bent or broken the 2nd gear shift fork. Open the top cover of the gear box and watch while you shift through the gears. (I'd recommend doing it with the engine off so you don't get a gear oil bath.)
Do you have the manual and parts books for your tractor? The parts book shows an exploded view diagram of the gearbox so you can see what should be happening.
If you don't have all of the manuals and parts books for your tractor I strongly suggest you order a complete set from one of the advertisers here. You're gonna need them sooner or later.
Great looking piece of land! I'm looking forward to the rest of the pics.
Dandy video, Bob. That guy looked to be a first-rate cat skinner. The good ones make it look so smooth and easy you'd think anyone could do it. Not.
I split my JM304 to replace a bad gasket and rear main seal, though the clutch was still fine. If you have a flat smooth place to work you can do it, it just means taking a lot of care to block things up level and use a digital camera to record everything in place and the sequence of removal so you can put it back together. Mos to fit is straightforward wrench turning and wire disconnecting/reconnecting, though there are a few things that can get sticky unless you have some guidance. I got the guidance from the guys on a forum and from Tommy at Affordable and Ronald at RanchHand Supply, and it went fine. I actually did it single-handed. If you care to read about it, you can here.
If you replace the clutch, you should also do the throwout bearing, the roll pin(s) that hold the release fork, all gaskets and have the flywheel faced or replaced if it is really too bad to reface. You should probably do the rear main seal as long as you're there and anything else that looks in any way suspect. The clutch needs to be adjusted after installation and the directions are shown several places in forums.
The hardest part for me, doing it myself, was getting the loader off safely. Once I had the beats off and secured the rest was straightforward. I had it all done in a weekend, exclusive of waiting for parts.
You're just going to have to try it at different positions to find which one gets you to where you can get the timing right by then turning the whole pump. Once you find the sweet spot you might want to mark the gears with a punch in case you have to take it off in the future.
Oh yes indeed you have to adjust the injector pump after installing a new one! If you don't get the new pump in exactly the same timing as the old one, you have to time it to the cylinder/valve sequencing. This is done by spill timing with the injector lines disconnected at the #1 injector. It isn't rocket science, bu tit has to be done just right for the engine to run properly.
How come you don't have glow plugs? Do you have an intake heater instead? What about a compression release? That's the usual way to relieve compression so you can roll the engine over.
The engine should turn over with a wrench on the crank pulley nut unless one or more of the cylinders has fluid in it that is keeping it from going to/over TDC – fluid isn't compressible like air is. The injectors just pull out, though they're usually stuck in place by carbon deposits. Sometimes after you loosen the hold-downs turning the engine over will pop them out with the compression.
Do you have the manuals for your tractor? If not, the first thing you should do is to order the full set form one of the dealer who advertise here. These are simple tractors but you still shouldn't be tearing into them without the manuals.
Did you lock the compression release open when you tried to rotate the engine? With the rocker arms removed all the valves will be closed and you're working against a lot of compression – maybe more than just that if you have somehow hydro-locked a cylinder. If you have no glow plugs the holes for them must be blocked with bolts? Can you remove those? You're gong to have to remove either those or the injectors in order to rotate the engine and clear any fluid that may be in any of the cylinders or you could break something trying to turn it over with the starter.
As Bob asked, why did you replace the injector pump? That may have a bearing on why it won't turn now. We need a bit more information in order to provide guidance.
