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Mike,
I have a friend who was diagnosed with colon cancer almost ten years ago. The docs told him it was metastasized and not operable, and all they could do for him was chemotherapy. He has had chemo every six months or so since then and is doing fine to this day. He always stresses that his positive attitude and the chemo treatments are what has kept him alive way past what the docs thought. There's no reason you can't work toward the same sort of outcome.
Lynn,
The Chinese OEM switches aren't that great so a lot of owners replace them with a Ford cold-start switch. Here's the one: Ford Cold-Start Switch. You just need to use an ohmmeter to determine which wire goes to which terminal.
Gee Bob, I had no idea you were so vain as to have electrolysis. Wouldn't bikini wax be quicker?
Jack is dead right about cheap chargers ruining NiCad batteries. Someone gave me a fairly nice cordless drill as a gift, but unfortunately it had one of those cheap chargers which promptly fired the cells in the battery pack because I left it on overnight. I'd gotten used to my Rockwell cordless drill chargers that didn't do that. But even the Rockwell batteries ultimately would develop a bad cell and then not hold a charge or not take a charge. I had several of them rebuilt with good results but I finally got tired of changing them so often while working and bought one of the new Makita 18volt Lithium ion cordless drills. Man, what a huge difference from the Rockwell! The Makita was smaller, lighter and had twice the balls and the batteries charged in 15 minutes instead of an hour.
The Rockwell now sits in a cabinet with no good batteries for it. One of these days I'm going to wire it with a 20' cord and a cigarette lighter plug so I can keep it in the service truck. It's a good drill motor, but the Makita is waaaay better and also has the only keyless chuck I've ever found that actually holds as well as a keyed chuck. Well, except for a $200 Albrecht chuck and who would put one of those on a cordless drill? I like the Makita chuck so well I'm going to order a couple more for the shop's small drill presses.
I had an old 50-something International Harvester 2-1/2 ton truck that had that same sort of add-on power steering system and I used whatever was the cheapest hydraulic oil I could find, usually ATF or AW-32. I couldn't tell any real operating difference among the various fluids I poured through that leaky SOB.
And nothing in the way of various patent medicine stop-leaks did a thing for it. Back then, (in the 70's), it was cheaper to keep on straining fluid through it than to actually fix the leaks. In five or six years I'm sure I ran ten or more gallons of fluids through it. Interestingly, the motor never used so much as a teaspoon of oil between changes. Look at the top left of the forums screen – there's a list of things, including your inbox,under a heading of “My CTOA”.
You said that the problem is with your shuttle clutch, but your post is titled “which hydrilc[sic] oil?”
I don't have a shuttle-shift tractor, but all the Jinma tractors with shuttle-shift use, as far as I know, 80W-90 gear oil for the transmission, front end, rear end and shuttle shift. From what I have read, the passage for the gear oil to get to the shuttle shift area is rather small so you sometimes have to over-fill the transmission initially to get oil to it. Also as far as I know, the shuttle shift linkage is mechanical, rather than hydraulic.
I'm sure someone here who actually has one will be able to give youfurther (and no doubt better) information.
