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I have to admit I was one of those 30% who didn't like the new format. However, after a few weeks of using it, I've come to like it and don't even remember the old format.
Rich
Hmmmm…since diesels don't have ignitions, I guess you mean the starter key. I've never bought just a key, but I've purchased a number of parts from Affordable Tractor sales, Ranch Hand Supply and Circle G Tractors and all of them have had extremely reasonable shipping rates. Were you just looking online or did you actually call them on the phone? All three of them have gone out of their way to ship my stuff in Flat Rate boxes to save me shipping costs, since I live where UPS doesn't go. I see no reason that they wouldn't send you a key in a small Flat Rate mailer for about $3 shipping, if you ask them.
I'd guess that's a typo and the actual tractor is a Kubota. So why not just get a Kubota backhoe – they make one tailored to fit each of their tractors. My neighbor has a little 18hp Shennui tractor and he has a small Kubota hoe for it. I borrowed it once to use on my 304 Jinma and it worked fine – PTO pump, TPH mount and about a 6' digging depth. A baby hoe, but significantly better than a shovel.
That did turn out nicely, indeed. Good job! Now just keep firmly in mind that that thing is for the kiddo, and NOT for your middle-aged self. Those things look to me like a great way to kill old joints.
Jack,
You're going to love that Millermatic. I have one of the Millermatic 175's – same welder, just an older model, and it has done yeoman service in my blacksmith's shop. I use it for everything from making jigs to building equipment and doing repairs, and it has never let me down. I push it to the limit and past at times, too. I generally run Ar/CO2 mix in it and mostly use .035 wire. I also have a cylinder of pure argon for when I run stainless or silicon bronze wire in it. I've never been sorry I got it.
I also have stick welders, TIG welders and O/A, but I use the MIG for 99% of my mild steel welding these days. I'd like to get another one to set up with a dedicated spool gun for aluminum, but that's down the road a ways, if ever.
I just got a plasma cutter the other day. I've always used the O/A for what little cutting I did, but I ran across a deal on the plasma that I couldn't pass up. A 60 amp plasma cutter for $400 with free delivery to my freight forwarder in Miami. It's a Chinese machine from an outfit called Longevity, Inc. I have a TIG welder I got from them a few years ago and ti's bee a fine machine so I figured I couldn't go wrong with the plasma. I hooked it up and tested it when it arrived and it worked fine but I haven't yet had a real use for it. I will, though. I have several projects in mind that the plasma will be real helpful on. Just have to find time to do them.
Have fun with your new welder!
Somehow I'm just not able to figure this one out. I guess that must be something different from what is on my 304 Jinma. Mine has a single lever for the TPH control and uses a couple of bolts/wingnuts to set limit stops for the lever. I guess the FP 2425 must have some different setup, right?
I learned by being taught by a guy I worked for as a kid then continued to teach myself as the years went by. I still have a lot to learn, too!
That problem with the steering cylinder mount is a good illustration of the problem with MIG welders. Because it is dead simple to run a bead with a MIG welder, a lot of guys think they know how to weld when they really don't. They lay down these pretty as pie beads that have no penetration into the parent metal – exactly as shown on the steering arm. Without adequate penetration there is no real bonding, just a superficial tack that looks like a weld.
You never really saw this problem that much when there was only stick or gas welding – with either of those, if you can make a nice looking bead you've pretty much got to have good penetration.
Chuck,
You are correct; the clutch is accessed through the inspection window to perform clutch adjustment procedures. Even if you did split the tractor you would have to adjust the clutch through the window after re-assembling the tractor.
I do not understand at all what you're getting at when you say you have to operate the hydraulics in connection with the clutch or PTO. Neither the clutch nor the PTO are connected to the hydraulics in any way (that I know of) and operating the bucket should have no effect on clutch operation or PTO operation.
If the previous owner did, in fact, replace the throwout bearing, he had to split the tractor to do so and probably failed to adjust the clutch after re-assembly. As far as I know, the Kama uses a two-stage clutch very similar to the Jinmas. The first part of the pedal travel disengages the primary (drive) clutch and the last part of the pedal travel actuates the PTO clutch. Two clutch discs and two friction plates that need to be adjusted together.
I don't own a Kama so I can't tell you the proper clearances and procedures for adjusting a Kama clutch. The general procedure is pretty much the same for all two-stage clutches however, so you should be able to get some guidance by searching for “clutch adjustment” on this and other Chinese tractor websites. Also, I believe Chip Uren of Artrac Company in Arkansas sells or used to sell Kamas and can give you some advice or get you a manual if you call him.
You might well find the information you need in this thread http://chinesetractor.proboard…..thread=470 by a guy who owns a 554 Kama.
Best of luck with it!
I need to make a set of those if I can scrounge the steel tube somewhere. Actually, I think I might have just enough 1-1/2×3 channel iron to do it – that would be stout enough for carrying brush and such, which I mostly need them for.
Thanks for the great documentation!
Rich
