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Sometimes even movement so slight that you can't even see it will cause the whole works to go out of adjustment. A roll pin that has sheared but not completely may allow only a degree or two of rotation on the shaft but that is enough, when multiplied by the moment arm, to make a large difference inside the clutch. One way to detect the sheared roll pin is to put your finger over the end of the shaft and press lightly so you can feel the movement – if you feel any shifting between the shaft and the lever, then you can be the roll pin needs to be replaced.
Since replacing the exterior roll pins isn't really that difficult, and be done in the field if necessary, I would advise against trying to beef up that connection much at all. Let it be the weak link as Bob recommended. Better to replace it three or four times than to split the tractor even once.
Check the roll pins in the external linkages. They're famous for shearing and still looking like they're okay.
I'll buy the 140 ft/lb head bolt torque, but not the valve lash measurements. Those would be 3/4″ and 1″,respectively, and the valves would never move. Probably you meant 0.20mm (.008″) and 0.25mm (.010″), right?
Shouldn't be too hard to fit a transmission oil cooler in the return line to the sump, should it? Just have to find a place to hang it where it will get air flow past it but not get whacked around by rocks and such.
Mind you, I'm no hydraulic guy – I'm just taking a wild guess here.
Well, I ordered the Cole-Hersee setup and I'm planning on installing the dtwo senders as separate units. I can find another place to tap an oil gallery I'm sure, or tee into the existing since pressure isn't subject to flow issues, and I can find a place to put a second coolant sensor, I'm sure. If I can't find a suitable existing fitting or plug to use I'll find a place to drill and tap a new hole. I do agree with Bob that the temperature sensor should be in flowing coolant if at all possible – in any case it has to be submerged in coolant that stays at engine temp. That may not absolutely rule out a tee fitting but I think it probably would be better to avoid that solution if at al possible.
Good news, BG! Glad to hear you got it back together and all is well at last.
What did you end up using for the head bolt torque setting? What valve lash settings? Just curious. The manuals are not always right on the Chinese tractors, that's why I always tell people to check with Tommy or Ronald if they aren't absolutely sure the manual is right.
Rich
Hey, I like the new smileys Hal and I'm getting used to the new format just fine. I haven't tried to do anything complex like upload a photo yet, but I imagine I'll get it figured out okay when I need to.
I did have to change the bookmark for the site – the old one brought up the intro page and I like it to go straight to the new postings list, which it does now. So I'm happy anyway – now you just have to make the other thousand guys happy, too!
Thanks for all your efforts.
