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Wow, what a tempest in a teapot!
Hal is doing what he thinks is best for the long-term survial and growth of CTOA – fine, it's his site and he can do as he likes with it, including shutting it down completely if he's so moved. I think Hal's motives are certainly clear – he wants CTOA to be the best it can be. He's doing something I certainly couldn't/wouldn't do so I'm not about to bash him over how it gets done.
Yeah, I “paid” my fifteen bucks. That doesn't make me a “vested” partner in the site, though. Far from it. That fifteen bucks is a donation to help defray costs. And a damn cheap one at that! If fifteen bucks is such a big hit to anyone's wallet that they can't afford it to help out a site they use regularly then perhaps they should cut expenses by selling the computer? Just a thought…
I don't know if Hal can get the old posts archived for search or not…way ove rmy pay grade. If he can, that would be great. If not, I doubt it's a huge loss as I notice that most people ask the same questions over and over and get answered about every time. The real resource here is the people, not the posts. Hal hasn't deleted any people, as far as I know. Sure, a few may delete themselves because they're miffed with the changes – can't help that, it's a free country. Sorry to see the good ones go, bon voyage to the ones who weren't that great when they were around before.
I have neither the technical skills nor the time to help out with the site's cnstruction/maintenance so I'm delighted Hal is willing to do so. Since I'm not part of the solution I certainly won't be part of the problem by bitching about how he does it.
Rich Waugh
That torque setting seems lower than I remember Ronald and Tommy suggesting – you might want to check with them. They would also be the source 'd recommend for the valve lash settings. My enngine is a TY395 so I can't advise you about yours.
A misaligned clutch finger may eventually cause a problem. If it drags on the throwout bearing it can result in heating and failure, for instance. There are posts on this and other forums covering adjusting the Jinma clutches. You'll have t search for them as I don't have them at my fingertips, but I strongly suggest you do so and set up that clutch exactly right. Your clutch will work better and last longer that way.
When I replaced my wimpy OEM alternator with the Delco 10Si alternator I added a voltmeter for a real-time reading of system output. The OEM ammeter isn't up to handling theoutput of the Delco so I simply bypassed it. It reads discharge amps but not charging – the voltmeter handles that for me. I also bypassed the OEM regulator entirely as it was causing blown fuses all the time. MY system now handles the 4 additional driving and work lights plus all the OEM lighting without a whimper and the battery is always fully charged. The OEM alternator pulley fit perfectly on the Delco alternator, too. I did have to make a new bracket for the alternator becuae the OEM one jus tdidn't quite fit right on the Delco. That was no big deal though, and well worth the fewe minutes – I now have a dependable charging system with sufficient output. I also replaced the belt with one of the link-belts sold by Harbor Freight tools. I'm sold on those things after using one on my table saw a fwe years ago.
Tinbender gave you good advice.
It is no surprise that the head bolts were harder to take out than you expected – this does not meant they were over-torqued on assembly, though. When bolts are properly torqued down and then stay that way for a while they are usually much harder to break loose. Release torque has nothing to do with initial torque in other words.
Diesels have a high compression ratio so they are more prone to blow head gaskets than lower compression engines are. I would have the head checked for flatness before re-installing it. Unless it was overheated, the head should still be flat, providied that it left the factory flat – that's why I would check it. Any automotive machine shop can check it for you in a few minutes.
Get all the coolant out of that cylinder right away and put some oil in there to prevent rust or corrosion. A wet/dry shop vac is a good tool for this, but don't use compressed air as it can blow the coolant past the rings.
Examine all the head bolts carefully and check all the bolt holes for proper depth and clearance. Blow them out with compressed air and probe with a small pick if necessary. Clean the block deck and the head face absolutely clean and free of any contaminants and re-assemble with a new head gasket. Do not use gasket sealer of any type with these head gaskets.
Check with Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply or Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales for the proper torque setting for the head bolts – the manuals are frequently wrong on this topic and these guys rebuild lots of engines and know what is right.
Once you have it running again, make sure you re-torque the head bolts and re-set the valve lash at 50 hours of run time. You now know why this is important. 🙂
Rich
Tinbender,
If you have MS Office on your Win7 machine resizing pictures is easy. I have MS Office 2003 and all I do is open the pcture in Windows Office Picture Manager and click on “Edit Picture.” In the editing pane thereis afunction at the bottom called “Compress Picture.” Click on that and it gives you options of different compression ratios such as document, web. email, etc. It shows you what size the picture file is and what size it will be when/if you compress it. Pick the compression you like and click on it – simple.
Hope this helps.
If you do decide to replace the control valve, Ronald at Ranch Hand Supply sells an excellent conversion setup – easy to do and makes a huge difference in control.
Adding a Delco 10Si three wire alterantor is a snap on these Chinese tractors. Cheaper than OEM and lots of output, too. Best thing I ever did for my Jinma's electrical system. Thre are posts covering how to do the changeover on this and other forums – check them out before you buy an OEM unit.
Often with a blown head gasket you will see either oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil sump. I'd start by checking for those – look in the top of the radiator for oil floating on the coolant and also slowly remove the drain plug from the oil sump and see if water comes out first. Being heavier than oil the water will settle to the bottom of the oil sump. Depending on where the drain plug is, it might help to park the tractor on a slight grade so the drain plug is the very lowest point to concentrate any water that might be present.
You said the engine began to heat up – do you men it began to *overheat*? The droplets of water on the exhaust could just be condensation from the exhaust. Was it actually water or was it coolant? Makes a difference.
How long had the tractor sat idle befor this hapened? Was it outdoors where it might have gotten rainwater down the exhaust? Do you have, or have access to, a diesel compression tester? Good way to diagnose a blown head gasket. Was the head re-torqued and the valve lash set at 100 hours? If not, you could try re-torquing it now.
Some things to consider.
Diesel bugs, aka HUMbugs (Hydrocarbon Utilizing Microbes) are a very real problem. They're a bacterial that lives in diesel storage tanks right at the interfacxe of the diesel fuel and any water that is present. They make a really nasty sludge that not only gums up things but also can corrode metal and cause rubber to break down. Some diesel cnditioners have biocide (bug killer) in them and others don't. If you have the bugs in your tractor then yhou need to do the whole nine yards to get rid of them, and you may wnd up having to replace hoses and even your injector pump or lift pump.
Suppliers that don't turn over their fule stock fast enough are subjec tto getting th ebugs as are end useers who let fuel sit around for extended periods without biocide additive it it. You can pick it up form a fuel station and bring it home in a five gallon can and wind up cnotaminating your vehicles, your storage containers, etc. They're really nasty things, those diesel bugs. You can Google “diesel bugs” or HUMbugs to learn more about them.
Rich
