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Thanks, Bob. I got it taken care of. Unfortunately due to the way it was parked, removing the tank was not an option as the loader was in a position that prevented opening the bonnet. I flushed the tank a dozen times until it ran clear and purged it with a mix of acetone, methanol and diesel to remove any traces of water. Mission accomplished – reassembled sediment bowl, fuel line and pumped the primer and cranked it up with the compression release open for a half minute or so. When I closed the comp release it fired instantly and ran cleanly. To say I am relieved would be an understatement. No sign of diesel bugs at all, only tramp water.
As for the health issue, it is what it is. The new chemo is helping, reducing the new tumors some and easing the pain a bit. It isn't and won't be a cure, unfortunately, but should buy me a bit more time. No idea how long, maybe six months, maybe a year. Unlikely it will be more than that, but I am ever hopeful. In the meantime, I'm getting things in order, as they say, so it won't be as much of a burden for Sally. No complaints from me, life is uncertain at best and there are never any guarantees it will be long or even pleasant. Mine has been pleasant for the most part, and always interesting, so I figure I'm ahead of the game.
What Tommy said – the previous owner may have over-extended the TPH piston, screwing the O-rings on it. They're cheap, anyhow. There is no such thing as a factory service manual for these tractors. You order the parts from Tommy and then call him and ask him how to do it – easy!
Probably water frozen in there and locked the brake on that wheel. I'd go after it with a propane torch, being careful not to get it too hot in one spot. After you get the housing warm it will melt any ice in there and you can then drain it again – along with the other wheel while you're at it.
Simple – stop using the key switch (no ignition on a diesel) to operate high-load circuits like the starter solenoid and glow plugs. Go get a couple of 30 or 40 amp 12vdc relays and some 10 gauge primary wire form the auto parts shop and rewire your starter solenoid so that the key switch only activates the coil on the relay, which then transfers power from the battery to the solenoid by the 10 gauge wire. The wire that currently runs from the key switch to the solenoid is what you use to energize the relay coil. I mounted my relay right on the solenoid for convenience and minimum use of wire, but it can be mounted anywhere convenient to you. Do the same thing with the glow plugs.
If you have additional high-load stuff like auxiliary lighting, I recommend switching them through relays as well. Most panel switches are only good for 10 amps, which isn't much when it comes to bright lighting (unless you're using LEDs).
When you were turning the valve in front of the seat, did you first loosen the set screw in the side of it? If not, you may have just stripped the knob on the shaft and not turned the valve shaft at all. That set screw has screwed a number of people… Frequently the shaft gets a bit of rust and is difficult to turn even with the set screw loosened, so you might want to check to make sure it really did turn and then try turning it out two or three full turns. The valve's purpose is to regulate the flow rate through the cylinder to sump, to control the rate of drop of the TPH arms with different weight implements on the arms, or when it is fully closed to divert flow to the single remote line to power a single-acting cylinder on a dump trailer. In that case the trailer drops by gravity alone and pushes the fluid back to the sump.
It got chilly here just the other day – went down to almost 70°. I put on a shirt and long pants, even.
At 0° I seize up and have to be resuscitated with fire and whiskey.
While you're doing this project, you might want to consider adding a relay to the GP circuit to take the load off the key switch. The Chinese key switches are somewhat notorious for crapping out easily, due at least in part to carrying too much load through the contacts. Adding a cheap 12v relay in the circuit and a 1`0 gauge wire from the relay to GPs will both give hotter GPs and cut the load on the key switch contacts to only about one amp instead of 30 or more.
The same concept applies on the wiring for the starter solenoid. I added one to my starter solenoid due to having continual problems with low cranking juice and it completely solved the problem and the thing starts every time now. I didn't bother with the GPs on mine since I have no need of them in the tropics.
That's a soft copper sealing washer and needs to be there. You can stick it place with a little dab of grease, but it can't fall through the injection hole into the combustion chamber in any event. The old ones should come out withe old injectors but if they don't you'll need a little hook probe to snatch them out of the holes.
