Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
If $15 is a deal-breaker, then you best not own a tractor or any other piece of equipment that moves.
I took mine off a couple of years ago and it was not fun. The published method works, as long as you have a level, smooth, hard surface to work with – I don't. I finally used my engine hoist/shop crane to hold it up so I could back the tractor out of it. I hope I never have to do that again.
The link you posted seems to be invalid. Have you traced the hydraulic plumbing on your tractor to see where it goes?
You might try posting your request on this site: http://tractorbynet.com/forums…..-tractors/ to see if you get a response, I believe one of the regular posters there formerly owned a Taishan and may have the manuals available.
I'm not familiar with a Taishan, but on other Chinese tractors, the PTO should have nothing to do with the 3-point hitch working. That should run off the main hydraulic pump, not off a secondary pump. Most of the 25 hp series of Chinese tractors use one engine-mounted and driven hydraulic pump to handle the power steering, FEL and TPH. How is your Taishan plumbed?
DO what Tommy said and adjust all your tie rod ends to take up the slop. I did that on my 304 and it made a huge difference. So far, I haven't needed to replace then, as I got the adjustment done before they had hammered themselves to oblivion.
It could be any one of the roll pins in the clutch linkage, from the pedal to the clutch release bearing fork. Since the PTO clutch releases at the very end of the pedal travel, a sheared roll pin anywhere could be preventing the full pedal movement from being transferred to the next stage of the linkage. It can be darned difficuylt to visually identify a sheared/broken pin, too. You may have to scribe a line across the joint and have someone else push the pedal while you look very closely (even with a magnifier) to see if there is slop indicating a bad pin.
There are better roll pins made, called spiral spring pins, or you can nest two standard roll pins as Mttoptv suggested.
A couple of years ago I bent the rods in my bucket cylinders when I snagged the bucket back dragging in the way you're not supposed to do. There's a reason you shouldn't do it that way, with the bucket tipped down and I proved it. Dumb. I had the same experience when I went looking for cheaper alternatives on cylinders – with a lot of work I could have made some of them work, but it simply wasn't worth the time. At my shop rate it was cheaper to buy new OEM cylinders from Tommy. I did straighten the bent rods in the press and used them while waiting for the new ones and they worked but were ruining the seals as they weren't perfectly straight.
If the cracks in your cylinder are not in the path of travel of the piston you can probably get away with welding it. If the piston does reach that area, then forget welding as you'll not be likely to get the thing honed out to the proper diameter again.
If you do weld it, be sure to stress relieve the weld area afterwards by heating to around 450°F and cooling in still air.
Even given the fact that Chinese steel is somewhat under spec, it would take a hell of a lot of pressure (more than CBN316 can develop) to “rupture” a cylinder wall. How did you get your little Chinese pump to develop that much pressure? Something isn't making sense to me here. That said, you can look at Burden's or Bailey's for a replacement, though you may have to do some welding to make it work.
Call the guys at Affordable Tractor Sales to get the info on how to remove the pump coupling. You're probably going to end up ordering your new pump from them anyway, right?. On the new pump – you might want to consider getting the next size larger pump, i.e. a 316 if current pump is a 312. It should fit fine and the increased flow will make your FEL run a lot nicer. Again, the guys at Affordable can give you guidance on this.
Next question to ask yourself is why did the pump shaft get rounded off? Most common cause is deadheading aggravated by a poor fit from the factory. You need to determine for sure that there is no deadhead situation happening before you fire up your new pump or you can blow it up on the first start up. Most common cause of deadheading is faulty quick connects. If you have the Chinese ones, either replace them with better ones or tear the guts out of them so there is no way they can deadhead if they come uncoupled while the engine is running. Of course, you'll spew hydraulic fluid all over the place in that scenario, but a bucket of hydro is way cheaper than a pump.
Lastly, I should advise you that your tractor is a tractor – not a dozer. You shouldn't use it to push boulders around. Neither the FEL nor the front drive components are designed (or robust enough) for such use. If you need to move a boulder that is too big to pick up, you should chain it up and drag it from the rear draw bar. Too many people have broken their front drives or wrecked their FEL by trying to use their tractors as dozers.
I know I may be
here, but I felt I should say it nonetheless. This way, later I can say, “I told you so!” 
Good luck getting things back in shape!
Does your tractor have a separate p ump for the power steering, or does it use a priority control valve, also called a diverter valve, to supply the steering from the main hydraulic pump? Your symptoms sound like a single pump that has failed.
There is a pressure relief valve in the FEL control valve, and possibly one in the TPH lift box, but those valves are self-closing. They're not like a circuit breaker where they blow and you have to reset them, they just close themselves when the pressure drops below their set point.
You may have blown your hydraulic pump end shaft seal, or something else that has caused the loss of hydraulic pressure. You need to troubleshoot the issue at this point. I'd start by disconnecting the quick connects on the FEL hoses and then reconnecting them, being sure they're completely seated. Do NOT run the engine while the hoses are not connected or you surely will blow up your hydraulic pump by deadheading it. If re-setting the quick connects doesn't help, then I'd disconnect the output from the hydraulic pump and put it in a bucket and then start the engine to see if it is pumping fluid. If not, the pump is bad. If it is pumping fluid, we'll have to look at other possible causes. My guess is that you're gong to find that the pump has no output.
You should check you engine oil level – if it is high, or smells like hydraulic fluid, the hydraulic pump may have blown the front shaft seal and be pumping hydraulic fluid into the engine sump.
