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chichi, that tells me that your compression release is not working. Possible cause…somebody had the valve cover off and did not get it hooked back up correctly inside the cover. The compression release opens the exhaust valves so if it was working it would allow the oil the blow right out of there.
I agree with Rich that it was hydro-locked but I think for a different reason. You changed the oil right before this happened. Some of the engines used in these tractors take oil very slowly. You can poor it in much faster than it can drain down. In fact pouring it in a normal rate can overflow the valve cover. At that point the valve cover is completely full of oil. An open valve and tolerances that are less than perfect can allow a little oil on top of a piston. It won't compress. I have seen it happen. Also make sure that you did not overfill the oil. And as others have said that compression release is your friend. Never try to force the issue.
The earlier models only had one line to the rear. This worked ok for things that required HYD pressure to raise and gravity to fall. Things such as a dump trailer or plow would work with this. On later models they had a steel return line that went directly into the 3 point lift housing sump. The knob in front of the seat has a couple of functions. You could adjust how fast the 3 point would fall based on how heavy of an attachment you had. The further clockwise you turned it the slower the 3 point would fall. There is a set screw in it so be sure you loosen that first. When the knob is turned all the way in the oil is routed from the three point to the HYD line on the back. Pull the 3 point handle back to send pressure (oil) out the line. Push it forward to allow the oil to flow back in.
These are very simple but people like NT can make it a big mess. We used to do warranty work for them. The number 1 customer complaint was slow loader with no lifting power. First the mystery valve. It is called many names even within the industry. A diverter valve, well maybe. A flow divider? A tee would divide the flow why don't they just use that instead? Really the correct name is a hydraulic priority valve. What it does is it give hydraulic priority to the steering over the 3 point.
When the tractors come in and are removed from the crate of course there is no loader. The fluid (pressure side from the pump) is plumbed into the front of the priority valve. Next step is to install the loader. Simple and best way to do it is feed the IN side of the loader valve directly from the pump. The OUT side from the loader valve then goes to the front of the priority valve where the pump pressure used to be connected. Ten minute plumping job and we are done. Now the loader valve not the priority valve determines system bypass pressure.
I have seen them plumed two ways from NT. One way the way we do it and the other is the way you guys have described it. The second way gives much slower response from the loader and it has less lifting capacity. This keeps people from tearing things up which is their goal.
There's my $0.02 and too many decades of fighting with this stuff.
Larry
Rich, I wish that was the case. It would be more fun. This is for a fire truck. Like the one at this link here.
Ours is all wheel drive. Below on that page are some pictures. One picture shows the back end. There is a screen in the picture. That’s where the engine is in this !#@&% thing. It takes young guys that are willing to stand on their heads to work on it.
This is one of those simple things that somehow got complicated. A person can tell the difference between the two speeds just by watching the PTO spin. Let it idle, watch the PTO in each selection. One speed is almost double the other.
The foaming means the pump is sucking part oil, part air. Sounds like it is very low on hyd oil or it is sucking air from a loose fitting. You will have to let is sit for a while before you can check it as the foam has to settle. As Ron suggested I would get a hold of the folks who changed it.
I have seen a number of Nortrac machines hooked up this way. It is wrong. Pressure from the pump should feed the FEL valve then from the FEL to the flow divider valve. Once you get it switched around you should see an improvement.
David,
Your buddy says “it aint no race engine”. I have built a few of those and so I dug out a few of my tables from back in the day.
An imbalance of one ounce 1” away from center of rotation at 2,000 rpm will be subjecting a force of 7 lbs. At 4,000 rpm, the force grows to 23.5 lbs! Double the speed again to 8,000 rpm and the force becomes 114 lbs Remember, this is one 1” away from the center of rotation. Now keep in mind that in the case of this tractor we are not talking about 1” away from the center of rotation. This is exactly why people that know what they are talking about panic.
What's really going on here is that you do have welds perhaps close to evenly spaced and they are approximately the same size. It is out of balance it has to be. The fact that you can't feel it simply means that the vibration dampener is doing it's job. But it will only take so much for so long.
Admittedly I am a stickler for doing things the right way and this repair does not follow that standard.
Larry
I have tried mirrors as Tin suggested when I had the backup type. There was just too much vibration no matter how I tried to mount them. The snow blower I have now mounts on the rear but you go forward with it. I have not seen any like this that would work on a tractor as small as a 284. Mine says right on it that it requires a minimum of 35 HP. Perhaps somebody makes a smaller one but I have not seen it. Mine is 68″ wide.
Any blower that goes on the front is very costly on a small tractor such as that. You don't have enough hydraulics to run it so you have to arrange other hydraulics off of the PTO. There are some models that have a drive shaft that runs off the PTO and up under the tractor to the front. All of those solutions are very expensive.
