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Dang Eric. That stinks. I been busy for a while and have not been on here. Was sure sorry to read this. Hope you are on the mend. Take care of yourself!
Larry
I have built many hydraulic items over the years. I can't give you an exact answer because there are too many vacant variables. All the wood I split comes from my own land and I know what I have. You may not be in that situation and might not be sure of what you will split in the future.
Most home wood splitters use either a 3” or 4” cylinder. There is a “significant” difference in the two. A 3” cylinder has around 7” of piston surface area where a 4” has over 12”. So for example at 2500 psi a 3” cylinder will produce 7×2500 = 17,500 lbs of force. A 4” cylinder at 2500 psi will produce 12×2500=30,000 lbs of force. Of course the higher the pressure the more you get out of it. One is far more powerful than the other in any case. The trade off is cycle time.
If you consider that most are 24” stroke cylinders you can calculate how much volume each cylinder will hold. Each cubic foot holds 7.48 gal of liquid. A 24” cylinder with a 4” diameter has 301.7 cubic inches of volume where the 3” has 169.7”.
Calculate your real flow….not just what the pump puts out. Make sure the valve and hoses you use provide sufficient flow. Speaking of valves I would go to some place such as surplus center and get a real valve for a wood splitter. They have a detent so you don't have to hold it in the retract position manually. This frees you up to grab more wood while the cylinder is returning.
I used a PTO driven backhoe pump/tank kit that I had laying around for mine. It works very well. Really faster than I want to work.
Good Luck
Allow my to stick my nose in here.
One day in the shop one of my employees was testing three glow plugs. He was using meters for resistance tests etc. Anticipating his answers I asked how many ohms resistance should we have. He did not know. So I asked what the point was to the test. He did not know other than to see if they worked. As the employer I knew I had about $100 in labor in just his testing and fooling around with the glow plugs for 1/2 a day.
Here's what I posted on the shop wall:
Proper test of glow plugs.
Use a known charged 12V battery.
Connect a wire of sufficient gauge to carry 15 amps to the positive post and a wire to the negative post.
Touch the positive wire to the connector on the glow plug. At the same time touch the negative wire to the body of the glow plug. Continue to hold the wire there for 10 to 15 seconds.
Touch the glow plug “the part that is supposed to get hot”
Possible outcomes:
1. Damn I turned lose of that in a hurry before it burned the crap out of me. Nice! The glow plug is good!
2. The glow plug did not heat or only heated a little. The glow plug is bad.
In case 1 if the glow plugs are not working via the normal circuity on the tractor then you should look elsewhere other than the glow plugs.
I think all crawlers from Holt forward are really copies of each other to some degree. It's the same basic design with a few twists here and there.
You will have to back the tensioner off to get some slack. You will have to jack the track frame off the ground to get the weight off of it. Break the track to get it out of your way. Seeing a sprocket would make me think that we are working on the back of the machine. (sprocket attached to final) But looking at the picture that looks like the front. To someone that has worked on crawlers for half a century I have to say that is odd.
Good luck
Bob, I know this type of stuff stinks just because the extra time it takes to deal with it. Unless the laws have changed in WA in the last couple of years…here's what I know or knew as the case may be. A few years ago A guy blew through a red light and hit an almost new Dodge Dakota I had in the side. His insurance company said get three estimates and we will pay the smaller of the three. I told them that I was getting no estimates and that I was taking it to a certain shop and they could pay that bill. They told me that I had to get three estimates. I said “That's not what the state insurance commissioner said”. I just happen to know that at least in our state what the law was. Never got any more argument out of them. The shop I took it replaced not straightened the left bed side, door and tailgate. The other guys insurance paid the whole thing.
A buddy of mine got ass ended and his car totaled last year. The insurance company gave him a real low ball check to pay for the car. One call to the insurance commissioner and that check got doubled. It's worth a call for sure.
You didn't say what year the tractor was so I am shooting a bit in the dark. Standing on the right side of the tractor next to the starter with the hood open you should see a large connector in the main harness. This feed everything in the dash area. Unplug that and look for a 10 gauge wire that may have gotten hot. On the later models the wire was white. You might find that the connector no longer makes contact on that wire. That will kill all power to the key switch. I have seen this many times on Jinma tractors.
Bob, the other day I read the national weather service prediction for fall/winter. They say there is going to be a split jet stream. Most of the moisture we normally get in fall and winter will be south of us. Their prediction covers all of WA, northern OR, northern, ID, and north western MT. For fall/winter they say that our temps will be above average and precipitation will be below average. I guess we have to wait and see if they are right.
