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In the second pic that bearing looks pretty dry and perhaps damaged. That can be greased with a grease gun.
In the third pic it looks like metal shavings. You need to investigate where that came from. Hard to tell from the pic.
Bob, that “connector box” should actually be a carrier bearing. Jack up one front wheel and turn it. You should be able to see where things are no longer engaged.
I heard back from YTO today. They said in fact that they no longer have any dealers in the US. You can get parts directly from them. They will ask you to do things such as send a picture of the tractor ID plate. I would advise to follow what they tell you in order to get the correct parts the first time.
Send an email to am@yto.com.cn
Thanks
Larry
There are lots of YTO tractors around. Generally people have less problems with them so you don't hear as much noise about them. We sold the 40HP and up and the 30HP is a much different machine than the 40. On the 40HP with the lever to the rear is the 4×4 position. The lever simply attaches to a gear box (transfer case). If that is ok then you should look at the drive going to the front. Also you can contact Glenn at http://www.yto-usa.com
And Bob I also responded to your email.
Larry
Toby,
If you have any numbers off of your current filters send them on to me. I can probably cross them over. Feel free to send them to larry@cooljohnsons.com
Thanks
Larry
A couple of things. I have the camera icon and I am running Firefox on a MAC.
If in fact one of the files that was causing Tin a Bob problems was called Steering brake bands (1) that file has no extension and therefore would not be associated with a MIME type and that could cause issues in some cases.
I went to post a simple text response and that mess is what displayed. This site needs help. I am not going to waste anymore time on it.
As you can see from the picture, it is very roughly cut. It came
directly from the factory this way. Does anyone know what they could
be possibly for?
One humorous thought comes to mind.
That is that the Chinese was scabbing something else together nearby
and needed a couple of gussets so they hacked them out of your frame.
Precisely. That's why stand-by generators are kept close to operating
temperature when off line. Even if you lose your 120 volt power it will
be quite awhile before it cools down enough to make a cold start
difference. I'm not sure of the logic behind using 12 volt resources
when 120 volts is available.
How about having a dry cell battery alarm that warns you when the 120 volt power fails?
Whatever Grumpy dreams up, I'm sure Rube Goldberg would be proud.
I digress.
Bob is exactly right. My 45KW generator has a built in battery charger and two engine block heaters. This thing runs my whole house, shop etc.
But I found out last winter that leaving that system plugged in all the time in cold weather adds about $40 per month to the power bill. So I start the generator every two weeks and let it come up to temp. I decided that I won't plug it in unless we get sub zero temps.
I like Bob's the Rube Goldberg comment.
There is more fuel pressure when the tank is full. Look for partial blockage, screens, filters etc.
I guess I've been admonished then. I moved the post to TBN
No way Bob. You stated it exactly like it was. A 500 error is not on your side. Those codes come from the server. This is for sure a server error that comes and goes and could be caused by the server being overloaded and simply can't fulfill all of the requests at a given time. That's one price for bargain basement hosting.
See the http status codes that start with 500 at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L…..atus_codes
