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It is a 30-0-30 so it probably is showing less than 10 amp draw. Good call. By any chance do you know the gpm of the hydraulic pump? It has a ZL-20 loader and I assume the pump puts out a constant flow.
Unfortunately, I haven’t gotten the tach yet, China is a long way away. The amp meter only moves slightly to the negative side. I may try to find 1 that has better scaling to do the trouble shooting. I was impressed with the fuel consumption the other day. I ran it, idled it, ran it, idled, etc for several hours and only used 1/2 of a tank.
I wasn’t able to get the tach installed because I had to actually use the tractor. I nearly got stuck but figured out that the handle by the pto lever is for the diff lock. I have to assume the glow plugs are kind of working because the amp meter goes negative when I engage the relay for them. It was hard to start at about 30 degrees. Took 3 attempts & each time I gave the glow plugs 20-30 seconds. On a side note, the loader control valve sucks. I am going to upgrade it, because it leaks a little and the tilt sticks. 12 cinder blocks fit perfectly in the bucket.
The tach I ordered is for it, but I wanted to verify. I ordered a cheap photo tach to check it.
As far as the new tach goes, what is the best way to confirm accuracy? There appears to be a pot for some type of adjustment on the back side.
I thought about wiring in an amp meter gauge on my glow plug relay, but I don’t know what the amperage of the combined glow plugs should be? And, I assume the current draw would change as the glow plugs heated up. I ran a 20 amp fuse and used #12 wire for the glow plugs through the relay.
I ordered a tach from Affordable. The wiring diagrams I’ve seen are sketchy. Does anyone know how the wires are actually supposed to go? There is an hour meter along with the rpms.
Update: I finally got the Ford switch put in; it took two days. They had cobbled the wiring to work with the failing switch. The 12V instrument wire is not from the voltage regulator, but I am not sure if that is the common practice. The temp meter is registering and my mechanical oil pressure guage is functioning (40-55 psi on cold start up from idle to full throttle in neutral). I got the coolant changed. The tach is shot. It actually had rusty/dirty water pour out of it. I also got the glow plug pushbutton switch and relay installed, but I don’t know if they are even working. The battery is at 11.77 volts, so next weekend I am going to recharge it and clean up the connections. And, I may be able to change the transmission and differential fluids.
Update: the oil pressure gauge mounted perfecly and read 40-55 psi after starting and accelerating. The temp gauge did not match up, though, due to thread size. Since I had the old sensor out, I ran a separate 12v source to the gauge and heated it and the Indicator moved accordingly. I had to wrap up work, but I will probably run a new wire line off the accessory connection on my new switch for the instruments. BTW got the Ford switch and the 3rd position is not spring return as advertised, which made no sense. And, position 4 is spring returned back to position 3. Position 4 will be the start and I will use position 3 as the glow plug trigger with a momentary switch in series.
