Raymond Hatfield

I just read through that manual that was in Piper’s link. It says for the 200 series that engine oil or hydraulic oil is fine. Some fresh 15w-40 on the way for it this weekend.  Thanks for the replies. I also need to try and adjust the brakes because they will barely stop it on slight inclines.

Sounds easy enough, but what kind of oil?

Piper, I think I downloaded those manuals, but I will have to look again.

David, I only have 3 forward gears, and it does better in low-high (creeper) in 3rd but has died on hills also.  My old Kubota 26 hp would pull a running 5 foot bush hog up steep hills in high 2nd (4 gears with only a high & low range). It was actually real impressive for a 20 year old tractor.  But, it had other issues, just like all of us.

I was wondering if there was heat transfer from the pto gearing/bearing that caused the oil in the sump just above it to heat up more. I may try to laser some temps at different points during operation. As for the steering, the cylinder had to be at least one of the problems because I cold started the tractor from the driveway to the garage on the day I swapped it. It would not steer for that 50 ft. Immediately after changing it, I could steer the tractor. However, after bush hogging, I found the 3 point lift problem and noticed the wheel drift while idling on the soft ground. The next morning the 3 point started working and the steering seemed to function as it had after the cylinder replacement. This is why I was questioning the heat issue. A buddy said that it might be the pump causing the problem over time while running, but I am not sure about that. When I ran the tractor just for loader work I didn’t notice those issues. But,    that was stop & go/on & off work.

No, I think the engine overheating is fixed. It hasn’t hit 80 degrees Celsius since I did the radiator and thermostat. I meant is there a way to additionally cool the hydraulic fluid?  Like adding an oil or transmission cooler on a car.