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I have no way to get a gauge into the system and run it. The loader has worked through all the other troubles, so I would assume the pump is functioning. It’s got me puzzled, because I thought keeping the engine the cool would make the difference. I wonder if running the pto and 4 ft bush hog is causing problems to the hydraulics even though they are separate systems?
Head scratcher. I started it up after letting it sit overnight. The 3 point began working again and the steering seemed to hold better while turning the wheel as it set on soft ground. The tractor never reached 80 degrees, but could there be a problem with the hydraulic fluid getting hot? I used AW46 (20 weight).
I forgot to mention that the loader is working just fine.
Well, it’s a POS. I got the cylinder with the adapters and new hoses. It would not mount up with them to the old cylinder’s stud. It faced directly forward, but I had to cut the mounting block in two and then weld it back together with that stud now facing down. This allowed just enough room to get the hoses and adapters to connect.
I then changed the hydraulic fluid. I drove it and it steered better, but there was a problem from the start. It turned sharply to the right, but was soft on left turns. I had to keep turning the wheel and I could feel it get stiff the harder I tried to turn to the left. There was obviously something awry. I bush hogged for over an hour this way and then headed back to the house. I lifted the 3 point, but when I dropped it to put the canopy back on, it would not raise again. No matter what I did, it would not raise. I drug the bush hog out to where I park and stopped. That’s when I noticed that the wheels were doing that shifting back after I turned the steering wheel just like the problem before. Now I have even more problems. I am disheartened to say the least.
With my luck they are probably both bad. Mine not only had to get a new cylinder, but I had to get the adapters and the hoses because it is so old it hasn’t had any of the upgrades. I’ve got everything freed and ready to go when I get my parts.
I didn’t get your replies until now. I worked all day after chasing parts. Fastenal had regular size 20mm nuts and I welded a piece of flat stock on it, double welding the joint. I drilled a small hole and then welded on a 3/8” to 1/4” hydraulic bushing, upside down. Then I could attach a 3/8” swivel by 3/8” npt adapter with the gauge in that. I put it on each steel line and opened the opposite side cylinder fitting for each test. Both sides would dead head against the gauge at 1500-1600 psi, and it would leak by the cylinder when turning away from the blocked line. It didn’t blow at high pressure like I would expect with a blown seal, but rather leaked by like a water faucet cracked open. But, there shouldn’t be anything going by. I ordered a new cylinder, fittings, and hoses.
The 20mm x1.5 jam nut fit perfectly on the steel line, which as an o-ring on the end of it’s face. So, now I need to find a 20mm cap that has a flat face on the inside, or I need to find a full size 20mm nut that I can weld a plug with a flat face inside it.
I found a 20mm x 1.5 jam nut and got my metric thread gauge. Hopefully I can make a determination in the next couple of days.
The problem I have is that there is basically nothing close to me. There is a JD dealership about 45 min away. I end up ordering my parts, or have my brother pick them up where he lives if I know exactly what I need. There is a place to get hydraulic hoses made that’s close, but there is zero chance of them having anything metric.
I know there was a washer on the hose fitting at the neck where it went into the cylinder. It was hard but very sloppy. CircleG said the o-ring portion of that washer had probably disentigrated, but it wasn’t leaking. I saw where Lowes has thread gauges for $5. I am not sure if they will have a 20mm nut or 14mm bolt.
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