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That’s great info, thanks. I still am having a hard time determining the type of fittings it will take. I did see a steering box on CircleG’s site and called them. Like Affordable, they thought the symptoms sounded like a bad cylinder, but that wouldn’t explain the leakage into the glove. They think the fittings will be straight metric threads with an o-ring. I think my next step will be to determine the thread size and find a bolt/nut to get the diameters of the cylinder and steel line. If I can make that work, I can load one side of the cylinder at a time to check for bypass. I may even be able weld up an adapter to put a gauge on.
I didn’t try to steer while working either of the other hydraulics. I still don’t know how that steering pump/controller/box works or what actually stops the steering of the wheel at max right or left turns. I saw a YouTube video of an eaton steering valve tear down and it looked very very complicated. There was a geared/cammed lobe and tons of ports & slots to direct flow. I am not seeing any type of metric hydraulic fittings that are in between millimeters i.e. 19.5 or 13.7 mm. I have seen metric hydraulic kits to determine metric size fittings, but they are $300+. I read a 2017 post on TractorByNet where they said it was a vane pump and I Jinma 354 steering box. And through Affordable or Circle G, I did not see steering pumps for sale. I could probably retrofit another make tractor steering box in there, but I am going to have the fittings of the hose to adapters problem. I really don’t have any kind of hydraulic shop to go to and I get all of my fittings online if I can’t find them at tractor supply or Rural King. It really should not be this complicated because in affect all you’re doing is working a hydraulic cylinder. I could rig up a joystick directional valve and turn the tractor to the right or left but it would be a cumbersome way to steer.
After reading an old post, it seems that there is a Priority Valve prior to the steering box. I had thought that this was a relief valve. I don’t know what makes it shift to the steering portion, but this may be my problem because the hydraulics on the loader and three point still work. Is it possible to bypass this valve and go straight to the steering box to see if the steering will work properly? Obviously the loader and three point would not be able to move if I did that, but I could see if the steering would work correctly.
After reading an old post, it seems that there is a Priority Valve prior to the steering box. I had thought that this was a relief valve. I don’t know what makes it shift to the steering portion, but this may be my problem because the hydraulics on the loader and three point still work. Is it possible to bypass this valve and go straight to the steering box to see if the steering will work properly? Obviously the loader and three point would not be able to move if I did that, but I could see if the steering would work correctly.
The cylinder is in front of the axle and the rod attaches to the left wheel. A left turn should send fluid to the piston side opposite the rod, and vice versa. I still don’t know what stops the steering wheel from continuing to spin after the wheels have gone to their max on either side? Mine continues to turn with a notching/ratcheting feel.
Update: I turned the wheels to the right and then took that side hose off, with the tractor off. Not much hyd fluid came out of that side’s line. I put a rubber glove over the steel line for leak control while I pulled the hose from the cylinder to measure that fitting size. I then figured I could check to see if the cylinder was leaking through by starting the tractor and turning the wheel to the left. I turned it a little left before starting, thinking that should divert all flow to the left turn side of the cylinder. When I started the tractor the glove gained some fluid, so I turned it more left and more fluid went into glove.
I am thinking there should be nothing going to the right turn cylinder line when turning the steering wheel left. I eased the steering wheel back right and a little more fluid went into the glove. I eased it back to the left and a little more went back into the glove. Now the glove is the size of a tennis ball, so I shut it down. I was amazed that it didn’t blast with high psi, but I was making minor movements of the wheel over only a few seconds of time.
I would love to get a psi reading at different points, but again I am dealing with some amalgamation of Chinese metric threads. The cylinder ports are approximately .540 in (13.7 mm) and the hose swivel to steel line is approximately .770 in (19.5 mm). Neither of them are flared ore o-ring fittings.
I don’t know what a steering spool is. I didn’t hit anything and mowed in 1st gear high-high or slower. It appeared to have a gradual failure because a little before it crapped out, I thought to myself that the tractor has a huge turning radius. There’s no way I can borrow a cylinder and testing it with the Chinese fittings is going to be near impossible for me. I get that ratcheting feeling when I turn the steering wheel also, but my steering wheel will keep on turning even when the wheels stop moving.
<p style=”text-align: right;”> OK, with the engine off I can turn the wheels while they’re on the ground but they drift back towards the Straight position. With the wheels off the ground and the engine running I can turn it right or left but when I turn it right it wants to drift back. With the engine off and the wheels up off the ground I can turn it to the left and I am not able to push the wheel back towards the Straight position. But, when I turn it to the right I can push the wheel so that it goes back to the Straight position, so it’s obviously bypassing there. When the wheels were on the ground it was in wet soft soil so there was not much to overcome to turn the wheels. I don’t really know where to begin my troubleshooting on this now.</p>
I used what Keno tractors put out on YouTube. I think it was ISO 46. It was at the bottom of the dip stick & I topped it off. There is no hesitation in the loader or 3 point action. It acts that way on flat ground. I did not try it with the engine off, but I could not turn the steering wheel with it off even when the steering was working. I will try it jacked up next weekend.
