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I pulled my 8N’s radiator & hose sprayed it out, but it was a pain in the butt. I was hoping not to have to do it on this, but I’ve got discing to do in the next few weeks. It’s always seemed like junk in the fins has been the problem w/every heat issues I’ve dealt with before, but I blew it out really good at the end of the fall w/air last year. Time is the biggest factor. There just ain’t enough of it.
Aargh! The tractor ran hot faster either the battery out of the way, but air temp was pushing 60. This time it went over 100 degrees C. The fan is pulling air so….. Can it be anything other than radiator problems, water pump problems, or thermostat failing closed?
Seemed simple enough because I had the tractor started multiple times this morning. I had to take the battery out twice while making the hold down. I got it made and when I bolted it down and went to start it, nothing… I tried another battery and nothing. I jumpered grounds and positives, nothing. Bought a new ground cable thinking it might be the problem, nothing. Started to think the starter might have intermittent problems so I jumpered it, nothing. Tapped it with a hammer, nothing. I had put in a relay for the starter solenoid so the current didn’t run through the key switch & I could hear it clicking. I finally went to check for the voltages which hadn’t been the problem after 2 days of work last weekend, and nothing. The fuse for the glow plugs/starter solenoid had blown!! Don’t know why for sure, but a 20 A replacement and chug, chug, chug. Maybe next weekend I will actually be able to get something done with it.
I finally got the tractor off of the trailer after 3 weeks. I was having trouble getting it started and it acted like the new switch I put on it. Long story short, I ended up replacing multiple wires, pulling the starter because I thought it went bad (fired right up at shop), and finally figured out it was the frame ground lug. So, I took another guy’s idea and built a battery box by the starter. It took a whole day and I still have to make a hold down for it, but now the radiator gets full air flow. So hopefully that helps with the running temps too.
You guys are making me cold just thinking about working in conditions where you need heaters to keep the hydraulics running. After I made the post, I did the Celsius /Fahrenheit conversion and figured it wasn’t that bad. My old TD7 runs 210 to 220° when I am digging roots. I just found the manual online again & got the tire pressures before checking this thread again, but thanks for answering that question. I am interested in the hydraulic overflow fix because that has happened a couple of times. Which just reminded me of a problem with my bucket tilt valve/handle which is extremely touchy. The cap on the back side of it has a big hole in the end. I am guessing that the cap covers a spring to ballast the handle movements?
You have to pull the inner fender on the passenger side and drop the exhaust pipe. Those two were the hardest parts of it, actually their reinstall was a struggle to do do by myself. I am so glad I did it though because I’ve started it 3 days in a row in the 30-40 degree range. It needs the exhaust manifolds replaced but that is cosmetic for a farm truck.
4 new glow plugs on the passenger side and bam it starts on the first try at 40 degrees. The glow plugs came out easy when I was finally able to get to them. The weather is like a yo-yo right now, so I can’t even use the tractor without tearing up the ground. I did get a small crack in the bucket welded and welded some chain links on it for hooking points.
It’s a GM. I did the drivers side, which had obviously been done before. The passenger side will be a bitch and appears not to have been worked on in some time, if ever. I am often amazed that tractors seem to run forever compared to cars. Granted they don’t do the hours that a vehicle does, but some of the work that they have done would have destroyed a truck in comperable situations.
