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Cornball suggestion.
I wonder if that darn thing would float. Dig trenches around it (half way there already), pump some water in the trenches, get some chains under it and drag/haul the darn thing away.
I agree with Rich. I am in a cold climate, I always get the biggest battery with the largest CCA I can find, expense is a smaller concern. In my 354, I installed a Group 31 31-XHD 1000 CCA from Interstate, it wasn't cheap, $150 or so, if I recall!!!!!
Hook one battery's positive terminal to the second battery's negative terminal. Now, the first battery's negative terminal is the ground and the second battery's positive terminal goes to the starter.
This is connecting them in series, the voltages add. For the record, I use one 12V battery in my 354.
Bob is right about the solenoid/relay thing.
All my Ford pickups (and my 72 Dodge, for that matter) had a relay on the fenderwell that energized starter and solenoid. The solenoid is actually a coil with an internal steel rod that gets pulled into the coil when current flows, throwing the starter gear into the flywheel. The coil energizes, creating a magnetic field. The steel rod distorts the magnetic lines of force, which like rubber bands want to be as short as possible, so the rod is pulled inside of the coil. When current stops, the lines of force go away, and there's a spring that pushes the rod out of the coil, waiting for the whole thing to happen again. 
The Chevys I remember (ain't had one in a long while) had an integrated relay and solenoid, just like the Jinma.There's plenty wrong in that quoted article, although it's good enough for the average Joe. It glosses over a whole lot of detail.
Bob IS wrong in his post #2 where he talks about the high resistance of the glow plugs drawing down the voltage. It's the LOW resistance (and hence high current draw) that does that. I bit my tongue until now, 'cuz I know he knows what he's talking about and just mis-spoke.
Tom
” I intend to ignore the tank that comes attached to the unit and run new hoses to tees installed in the hydraulic lines. I want to run tees so that I can lower the bucket on the attached Koyker FEL to give me a solid front mount.”
You can't just 'tee' into the lines, these are open center systems. Do yourself a favor and get a PTO pump. Many folks (including me) use the Prince PTO-7A pump for this application.
I agree that mechanical fastening of some sort is in order. In my 27 years (has it been that long?) in engineering, I have seen many broken solder joints – solder joints are electrical connections, not mechanical, for the reason seen here.
As for RTV, many kinds are not suitable for electronic components, the outgassing can corrode things. Some are electronics safe, but it's not really advertised which are and which aren't. I'd go with hot glue.
Uh, when I changed my hydraulic fluid, I disconnected there and let it drain into a bucket, so yeah, there might be a few drops……….
Maybe you can pack dry ice around the hose and 'freeze' the fluid, creating a temporary plug? I can't say I've tried it, it's just an idea, and might not work at all.
What happens if you can't start a generator when it's cold? What if the power goes out when you're sleeping and it's cold? If you have an inverter that will power the hair dryer, and you have proven to yourself that the hair dryer does the trick, but your concern is that the hair dryer draws down the tractor battery too fast, then a deep cycle battery dedicated just for the hair dryer and kept next to the tractor with a constant trickle charge to power the inverter might be the ticket.
