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I agree with Bob's suggestion, being that if it has a 12V output, use that.
If not, you could consider going to your local Radio Shack and getting a 12V 'wall wart' that will plug into one of the outlets and provide 12V DC for your meter. That way, there would be 12V and the meter would run whenever the generator runs.
As for the 12V Zener thing, well, you'd best know what your doing or you'll let out the 'factory installed smoke' in short order. The generator is really an alternator, it provides AC. About 340V peak to peak. You need a transformer to step it down, followed by conversion to DC (diode or diode bridge). It probably doesn't need to be regulated for the meter. A cheap wall wart power supply does all that for you.
I can't see a break in the second picture. Perhaps the bolts fell out there, and the second plate on the opposite side snapped due to added stress?
Note to self – more places to check for loose bolts.
Did you hear a 'click' or a 'snap'?
I'm guessing you're hearing the relay/solenoid, but the starter is refusing to turn.
Can you turn the engine over by jumping the terminals with a screwdriver? Careful! Make sure the tractor is out of gear before trying this!
Maybe the starter just needs a good cleaning or brushes.
Let's see if I can confuse the situation more.
My loader valve comes after the pump, then flows to the diverter/priority (I've seen it called both) valve, which splits the flow between the steering and lift. My understanding is that steering takes priority, whatever is left goes to the lift.
Now, if there is inadequate flow, perhaps none is available for the lift? And lowering the loader provides a temporary increase? The loader would work under all conditions.
I have to agree, it certainly looks like it's been poorly assembled.
Now, on my tractor, Jinma appears to have taken a 'belt and suspenders' approach, in that they seem to have slopped enough paint on to hold in case the welds broke.
That's still high pressure. I have one to install one my '354 as well, I was thinking along Tin's lines, tying into the rear hydraulics.
You go first, and let me know how it works –
Bert,
I'm kinda curious about the tool used to pull the sleeve. Is that some sort of attachment for a slide hammer?
Cool pics of your work, and it's also pretty nifty Bob's pointing out of the evidence of ring travel, etc.
This is an interesting thread.
Another one http://www.everythingattachments.com/
A couple more things. There is (or was in my 2006 '354) a screen filter on the suction line just inside the tank. Make sure it's not plugged or collapsed – it's pretty chintzy. Also, make sure you don't use the 10 micron filter, I think the correct one is 140 micron (something like that, anyhow). And draining my sump was a messy job, there's no drain plug, I removed the banjo bolt on the suction line and let the stuff pour out.
