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Nice going Thomas. Are you working on a concrete floor? At this point a pic of your work would help a lot. A transmission jack can save you a lot of grief here. You can attach the sprocket flange and “slide” the final drive out as a unit once all the interferences have been removed. I’ll show a pic of my transmission jack setup tomorrow.
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The best way is to install a rigid top link, and it works great. These come stock on LiTW backhoes. I gave instructions on how to make one in another thread.
Thanks David and Bob, I now see the threads on the rigid top link. The instructions look a little different than what would be needed for my LW6 but non the less I will investigate. My really big concern is I can’t see how this link will not be shredded / trashed when the 3-point lift is raised or lowered. It seams like you would have to put the 3-point lift at a precised setting and hope it does not drift.
I have not heard of a rigid top link failing. It is designed to be installed/connected at operating height, or as you said, a predetermined setting. Believe me, it is as stable as a frame mount, and no, it doesn’t drift at all (what’s to drift, it’s rigid).
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The best way is to install a rigid top link, and it works great. These come stock on LiTW backhoes. I gave instructions on how to make one in another thread.
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Yikes! Better get those stud/bolts back in with Locktite. It does sound like you will have to pull the finals.
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It appears that neither engine is from the Yaing Dong TY engine series family so I can’t tell you much about them other than the 3LS30 is a Tier lll EPA compliant engine, and the SL4105 engine is not. Neither can be made to be current Tier lV compliant, but are automatically grandfathered.
Sorry.
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If the machine has not operated for a long period of time and has set out in the elements there’s a very good chance the steering clutch plates are just rusted together. Sometimes they can be free’d up just by trying to exercise them while pulling or pushing the tractor. The clutch discs are not cerro-metallic as advertised, but rather a sintered bronze much like what you would find in marine and industrial transmissions.
You might get lucky. :yes:
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Are you referring to the arm on top of the case or pedal travel?
Do you have the pedals that go through the floorboards, or the pendulum style mounted on the sides of the instrument console?
Do you have the operators and parts manuals? The adjustment instructions are included.
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David is correct. It’s not likely the load will be over 10 amps for one plug, so just omit the shunt.
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Aha! Is this the unit that you bought? It shows an independent power source for the meter.
https://www.ebay.com/i/192263756818?chn=ps&var=492193720301
Try hooking your meter up like this.
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