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OK, foaming in essence increases the volume of oil. Foaming is caused by turbulence, a natural occurrence in hydraulic systems. As a rule of thumb, the minimum reservoir capacity in gallons must equal or exceed the GPM rating of the pump. This allows for adequate time in residence to deairate the oil and allow for enough heat dissipation before continuing the cycle.
Are you using ISO AW 32 Hydraulic Oil specifically?
Is your reservoir at least 7-8 gallons?
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I you fully extend the boom, dipper, and bucket off the ground, shut off the tractor and walk away, does the boom fall by itself?
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“I have inverted 2 injectors to make a test this morning and the front cylinder injector works perfectly on cyl 2 but make nothing on cyl 1 pure fuel are coming (maybe without enough pressure )”
Sorry, but I don't understand.
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Not sure if Ronald or Tommy carry kits for those cylinders anymore but you can check.
Circle-G does carry kits here.
Replacing the seals is pretty straight forward, the boom must be lowered and supported. If I remember correctly the cylinder doesn't have to be completely removed. just disconnect the rod end and remove the seal end of the cylinder and pull the rod and piston out. There are two types of cylinder seal ends used, one end screws on, the other uses snap rings. Be sure to relax all of the backhoe cylinders first, and have an oil catch pan under the boom.
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Two possible scenarios John:
1) Boom cylinder cup seals are bad, oil is by-passing. Possible early indication of eminent failure.
2) Debris stuck in relief valve, preventing full pressure.
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If you have a magnetic heater stick it on the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir. It sounds like you might be getting cavitation from cold oil on the suction side. I've seen that before but not at 34°.
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Greg,
Your plan looks good. Here are my suggestions, in order. Leon may have others.
2) Dismantle the backhoe (Assume you mean to just drop and set aside.)
1) Remove blade
3) Remove ROPS
4) Remove all actuators/controls/hoses
6) Remove saddle bags
5) Remove tracks (Drop swing frames at this point if you're going deep. Block transmission and differential case.)
7) Remove radiator (need to be repaired. has a leak)
10) Remove engine
9) Remove fuel tank
8) Remove dash board
As far as the tracks go, make sure the track tensioner is backed off all the way (the yoke shaft on the idler screwed back into the spring housing.). A quick and cheap way to bring the ends together is by using a couple of 1/4″ choker chains and a load binder – either type works well.
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