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I'll bet it was tricky sliding apart. Teeth were catching on each groove.
On the clutch discs: If any of the internal or external teeth have become pointed OR the facing on the lined discs has become cracked or broken, OR any of the discs are warped, they must be replaced. Periodic inspection of the steering compartment drain plugs might have detected the cast iron dust.
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That drum is toast. I'll bet the clutch action was sporadic and sticky at best. Those grooves prevent the discs from separating under load, and also prevent them to compress easily. I would expect to see this type of wear on a machine with a few thousand hours on it, or from a machine that someone rode the steering clutch pedals.
Phillip has a pic of a new one here.
What does the externally splined hub look like? And the teeth on the discs?
(almost scared to look). The discs are steel, the drum and hub are cast iron. The discs MAY be okay.
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Thanks.
That HF scaffolding is actually two units combined. They only come with one horizontal section each, but they were on special so I bought two. Wish they had an optional side railing.
My heat right now is just a kerosene fired salamander which works pretty good but it's noisy and I can't hear my rock 'n roll. Main heat will be a pellet stove – eventually.
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Grizz:
“Of course I'd like to get my hands on a dozer but that's another thread.
“My friend, you have the patience of a nun.
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There is only one flaw to “The Law Of Leon's” – “If it ain't broke, don't fix it.” and that is: If it ain't broke and I don't see it, then maybe it's about to.
Just sayin'
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Or, 2.2mm, or approximately 12 gauge. Hmm, thought they would be thicker than that.
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I also have an idea for a transmission jack adapter that will allow pulling the final drives easily – without removing the sprocket. Stay tuned. As soon as I get my shop useable things should start to flow.
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I was looking closely at mine yesterday and believe that the ROPS can be lifted out of the sockets and rotated 90° so it can be moved off over the rear of the tractor without additional lifting. I will verify this soon. I also have a HF gantry crane. Two, actually.
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Well, I think you nailed it.
However, there is one caveat: the nylon strap must not be thicker than the band AND lining combined – at any point, in order to get past the adjusting screw bosses. My suggestion, instead of a nylon strap, would be to use a length of wide sheet steel such as package strapping, which you can probably get for free from doing a little dumpster-diving. And it's less likely to get snagged.
And you can still pull the finals if you have to.
I also agree with Grizz in that you don't get to inspect the steering clutches. Could be a Pandora's Box that you don't want to open just yet.
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