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If the brake band linings are bonded to the brake band I wouldn't risk changing them from the top because you stand a good chance of cracking the lining and separating it from the band. However, if it was riveted and in segments, then that risk would be minimized. The band and lining is pre-formed to the diameter of the hub, and I would hate to disturb that shape by changing it and trying to get it back.
I'm thinking that the brake hub (drum) is thicker than 1/8″ – 1/4″, closer to 3/8″ – 7/16″, maybe 1/2″, and a clean-up cut of up to .010″ should be okay if needed to remove scoring. The Hub should also be inspected for heat checks in the lining contact area. Very minor checking is normal and acceptable.
In Leon's last paragraph I believe he is referring to the steering clutch DISCS which have alternating internal and external teeth, and agree that they should be replaced if cracked, warped, or otherwise broken.
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Something must be wrong with mine then because it charges at idle – around 600 r/m. Oh well, I was just curious about the “short” pulley. Never heard of that. Short, for me anyway, usually refers to a distance (horizontal/vertical) measurement.
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bob16925 wrote:
“I found the short pulley to keep the charge rate up…”
Not sure what what you mean, but good luck.
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David,
That part of the primary fuel system, between the lift pump and secondary fuel filter should be operating at a nominal 20 – 25 psig. However, if the secondary filter becomes restricted or is beginning to plug up thereby increasing resistance to lift pump flow, pressures can become rather high unless the filter has a built-in by pass valve, which some do. I replaced all of my primary fuel lines with 5/16″ fuel hose and regular mini-hose clamps.
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1) Remove the ROPS. My guess this weighs approx.500 lbs. My plan would to use a gantry crane to lift the ROPS off the dozer, backup the dozer, and place it on three wheel dolly movers like Harbor's 97672 or 67208. That way I can move the ROPS around the shop out of my way. I have a four wheel cart/trailer that I'll set it on and park it outside. Same principle though.
2) Block dozer
3) Split track between sprocket and roller on top. It's easier (and lighter) if you drop the tracks before you jack it up and block it, and be careful when you roll the tracks off the idler, they can pick up speed as they unroll.
4) Lift and block saddle. Make sure all of the saddlebag bolts are removed, Check where the saddlebags bolt to the “transom”. There is probably some differences between tractors. Completely drain final drives and differential.
5) Remove final drive unit with sprocket using gantry crane and car jack. Transfer to dolly to move out of work area. Might find it easier if sprocket is removed. The brake drum (hub) will come off with the final drive assembly.
6) Remove brake band, inspect brake drum and dissasemble steering clutch assembly and inspect for warped and delaminated discs. Repair Replace as necessary.
7) Install relined brake band and reassemble in reverse order. You took pics didn't you.
Or should I plan on lifting the ROPS and saddles together 8-10″ since I have to do both sides? I could use an engine hoist instead of gantry crane on the final drive unit. On mine the ROPS forward sockets are attached to the towers, so I can't do it that way. Yours may be different.
Be sure to pay close attention to, and protect, all seal surfaces. Thoroughly clean all ball and roller bearings. It is usually an accepted practice to replace all associated bearings, gaskets, and seals when going this deep into a machine. You hate to have to do it over again because of a $20.00 part that failed because it was marginal.
To my knowledge there are no dimensional wear limits on these parts, so good judgement and experience should be used when qualifying used parts for re-use.
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Sorry I got on my soap box. The Tytan/Yuchai does have some good features, but I just come up to full load and speed when I hear the name.
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I looked at Tytan, even called them.
Asked how can you get 10,000 lbs. of down force on your three-point hitch when the whole tractor only weighs ~7,000 lbs.? Answered with silence.
Asked how big an alternator is on the engine to power a 9,500 lb. winch? Answered with silence.
Asked why they advertise a hydrostatic drive when it is not? Answered with silence. (Had this same discussion with Bolton Equipment and Circle-G who changed their ad. Bolton was an ass about it but eventually changed their ad.)
Now I'll have to call them back and ask about the “New stronger 3100 engine”, and if they stock any dozer parts.
I hate sales people that lie!
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OK, my sump does not have that feature. By all means then clean it.
I don't think the E-series engines have that type of strainer.
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I was doing it long before I went in the Coast Guard, but when we did tune-ups on the 6HN49's we used dial indicators for the injectors and feeler gauges for the valves – engine stopped, but then the Coast Guard's engineer traing back then was severly lacking.
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Sorry Phil, the bullets went away when editing. Replaced with “Ordered List” function (5th from left in toolbar).
Any comments are welcome. Phil
Dozer Maintenance Checklist
Every eight hours the following is done:
- Check level of coolant. Daily at first startup.
- Clean radiator screen and fins. Clean as required,inspect daily under extreme conditions.
- Refuel. As required and prior to lay up.
- Check engine oil level. Daily at first startup.
- Grease track idler and rollers.
- Eyeball track tension and track pin bolts.
Yearly the following is done:
- Record hours in Dozer Maintenance Records. This is done every time maintenance or repairs are performed.
- Clean air filter and change every 1000 hours. The element should be inspected daily when operating in extreme conditions due to close proximity of the cooling fan.
- Change engine oil and filter and clean sump screen every 1000 hours or
three years. Most four-stroke diesels have 250 hr. change intervals. I change mine by analysis and have no intention of dropping the sump until overhaul time. - Check gearbox oil level and change every 1000 hours. Or by analysis.
- Check final drive oil levels and change every 1000 hours. Or by analysis.
- Change fuel filter and clean prefilter element every 1000 hours or three
years. I would inspect and clean the primary filter (including lift pump banjo-bolt screen) at the same time the secondary filter was changed. - Check hydraulic oil level and change filter every 1000 hours or three
years. Or by analysis. - Check injector pump oil level every 250 hours and replace every 500 hours or three years.
- Grease track tensioner.
Grease:
- Fitting in front trunnion of swing frame equalizer. There should be a fitting on the rear trunnion but there isn't.
- Water pump. No grease fitting on later models.
- Clutch release bearing. One shot/100 hours while operating as track loader. N/A on shuttle shift models.
- Blade pivot pin- top and bottom.
- Cylinder pins.
- Swing shaft.
Check tension on pulley belt ( ~5/8”).
Check and adjust track tension (3/4”). As required.
Check torque on sprocket bolts (? Foot pounds). See pic below.
Check for loose bolts. Always.
Adjust brakes using Bob's method.
Perform head bolt re-torque and valve clearance at first 50 hours and every 500 hours thereafter.
Check clutch using Leon's method. What is his method? Don't remember.
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