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I don't use a block heater but if I did I would use the thread-in immersion type and install it in the left side of the engine block where the large pipe plug is.
This is a sample, but Mercedes Benz uses the same type and would be metric threads.
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I don't recall any pitfalls when I swapped mine, except that I had to put the lockwasher between the pulley and the fan as a spacer so I could use the OEM pulley, and use a couple of washers on the adjusting arm. I installed a Delco 12Si 72 amp alternator. Only extra thing I had to buy was the pigtail @ $2.50. Oh yeah, and a belt. Bought the segmented belt from Harbor Freight.
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No. They will still operate from the same control arm, but the take-up rate for the brake will be much quicker which will allow the band to be fully relaxed in it's adjusted position, eliminates the need to pre load the arm, and also eliminates the slotted link (which was grossly inadequate IMHO). I could have accomplished the same geometry with rods and bellcranks but this seemed the more expedient method.
All of those pics are taken on the left side. I chose the left side to experiment with because it was easier to access, little hose interferences.
I might add that this system can be adopted to the pendulum pedals as well.
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There is a copper washer underneath the injector (these can be purchased locally at a hardware store or a Chinese tractor dealer of your choice). Sometimes they come out with the injector, sometimes not. And sometimes the injectors will have carbon deposits around the tips making them difficult to remove, necessitating the use of a heel (crowfoot) bar
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Phil wrote:
“What foot pounds would you use on the #53 bolts?”
Same. All head bolts of the same diameter have to be the same torque. This gives uniform crush on the gasket, minimizes head warp, minimizes bolt stretch and fatigue, and also provides uniform clamping forces (hence the tightening sequence).
Here you can see my style injectors and the fork clamps that hold them in. Same engine, different cylinder head. May be early or late style, don't know.
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The injector itself doesn't have to be removed (in my case. Mine are like the ones in Larry's pic.) but the hold down clamp does, and you will have to disconnect the steel fuel lines (first) and gently move them aside so you can drop the socket on the headbolt. The word here is CLEAN! Cover the injector fuel inlet.
The #53's are special bolts in my case. They have a stud threaded in them. I have a different style injector. If you have the type like Grizz has you will have to remove the injector.
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Just want you to know I'm working on the brake linkage mod. Still have to make a bracket but I'll post some pics of the unfinished mod tonight for comments. Going is slow bcuz there is a lot on my plate right now.
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