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Checking and adjusting valve lash should always be performed after a cylinder head is re-torqued.
If you chose to try adjusting lash while hot and running, just let the wrench “float firmly” in your hand. Same with the stubby screwdriver. If I had three hands I could demonstrate.
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Phil wrote:
Do I ramp up the torque like back off one turn on all bolts then torque all to 50 foot pounds and then torque all to 100 foot pounds?
For a re-torque it's not necessary to do it in steps. Start with the centermost bolt and work your way out in a star pattern (either clockwise or counter-clockwise), loosening and re-torquing one bolt at a time.
Safety is important so this is what I plan to do.
Is this for working on the engine (head torque, valve lash)?
1) Block tracks and make sure gears are in neutral. Yes.
2) Shut off fuel at sediment bowl. Not really necessary, but OK.
3) Pull shut-off rod and lock open. I use a nylon tie-wrap at the governor.
4 Open decompression and lock open. Fail. You will be removing the rocker shaft to re-torque the head unless you have that special torque wrench adapter.
When you have the rocker shaft removed, inspect the rocker valve contact area and the adjusting screw for abnormal wear. Also inspect the push rod ends and try to keep them in order. See if they roll flat.
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I set them hot with the engine running, but that's me. Old habits die hard.
On the EMD diesels, we initially set them cold and then check with a go no-go gauge when hot and running.
If you choose to try it, be very careful.
About the class I and class II bolts; there is no such property class in the metric system. The range is from 4.6 (low carbon to mild steel) to 12.9 (alloy steel, quenched and tempered). This is world class ISO 898-1 which, in some cases, equates to ASTM F 568M.
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WOW! Sorry to hear that, but to me it doesn't seem necessary to use another browser just to view one website when all others work well with IE-8.
All is better now Hal.
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It appears to be gone now, at least from my remote location on tether.
Nothing here was ever “rounded”.
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I saw that. Strange.
I think the crankshaft is gone too!
I'll be using TBN as backup now, CTOA has become unpredictable.
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Having a relay for the glow plugs or manifold heater takes the high amp load away from the key switch. Just a good idea IMHO.
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Tractorfreak wrote:
“The manifold heater does have a fuel line from the injectors but it is a fuel return line?? Wonder if I should block it off? I like the relay thought. I think I will make a comparison of the draw of the manifold heater and the glow plugs next.”
I have encountered this installation before and have concluded that it will not work correctly as installed by the factory. The lines on top of the injectors probably have no fuel in them at all unless they are tee'd in with the fuel return line from the fuel injection pump. There is a misconception going around that these are unit injectors that have volume return, this is simply not the case.
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I agree with Larry, and I would favor the glow plugs used with a relay.
Does your manifold heater have a fuel line from the injectors going to it?
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