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Well, my bad. The 540 r/m position is toward the REAR, and the 720 r/m is to the front.
My apologies.
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Now it’s totally blocking the site.
“Mass lframe injection attack 2”
Can’t go on like this.Doing this via phone.
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“Ohhhh so THAT'S what the indicator light indicates! Mine never indicated anything.”
I think the real reason behind the light is to indicate that the key switch circuit is closed. Since these engines aren't equipped with shut down solenoids, it's a reminder that the switch is on.
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Brock,
From the video it acts like your reluctor (tach sending unit) is very dirty. Try removing and cleaning it.
Also, check all of the instrument ground and wiring connections.
Not sure how you have your ammeter connected, but the OEM alternator is only good for about 14 amps, on a good day. If you have 13 – 14 volts DC when it's running, you're okay.
The voltage regulator is mounted next to the fuse block under the hood, and it also has a red indicator light on it which shows field current going to the alternator which is illuminated when the key switch is on. Again, check all connections and if the indicator light doesn't come on, replace the regulator.
Either you are out of fuel or your fuel gauge doesn't work.
Your in-dash ammeter shows a slight discharge at higher engine speed. Correct? Another sign of voltage regulator (or meter) failure, or just bad connections.
The red indicator light on the dash mimics the indicator light on the voltage regulator, see if it's burned out.
Larry is correct on the reluctor values. AC not DC.
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Grizz,
I'll be tearing into it by Thursday. The deck plates are coming off anyway to install my mod. But to answer your question, my pedals don't travel all the way to the deck plate stop, they bottom out applying the brake about 5/8″ to 3/4″ before the stop.
I will get that measurement for you. You read my post #4, yes?
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You won't get any output from the alternator with no field current going to it from the voltage regulator, that's why the battery must be connected to perform that test.
Just put the meter leads across the battery posts (pos to pos, neg to neg) and read the meter with the engine running about 1,200 r/m. You should be seeing 13.5+ volts DC.
You should make double sure all of the connections are clean and tight, including all of the grounds.
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