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“What besides bands do I need to order?”
Gaskets. But figure on making your own unless you want to wait. Don't think Circle-G or anyone else stocks final drive gaskets.
I would look at just having them re-lined first. Even though they aren't all that expensive, re-lining should be a lot cheaper.
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The problem with both pedal systems is the sequencing of the brake, and this is due to the type of actuation of the band. Too much motion is lost to just apply the brake in relation to pedal travel (the steering clutch actuation is fine). I speculate that this system cannot be adjusted nor expected to operate correctly as designed, even at the factory, and was not thought through very well.
The actuating mechanism for the brake is unique to these tractors. The old Cats, Case, IH, etc. use a straight pull rod through the ends of the band using a pivot arm to draw the band ends together. Much better and more accurate. Also, they had separate levers and pedals for the brake and steering.
One thing is for sure – you can't pre-load the brake band to the point of contact and expect to get any life out of them. I suspect that if you can run the adjusting screws all the way in then there isn't much lining left on the band.
In the following weeks (I'm doing this on my vacation) I will present my mod, which in my opinion will correct this engineering design defect.
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I take it you have a two pole alternator that requires 3,600 r/m to get 60Hz.
Your speed selector lever needs to be in the rear position for (corrected) 720 r/m and forward for 540 r/m.
FYI: 8kW only needs about 11 HP to produce so that would be the demand, even on a 125 HP engine. Doubt there would be much difference in fuel consumption per kW/hr between the two.
The FarmPro brochure says your PTO is 540/720 r/m, so maybe you can't get 60Hz after all. The 1,000 r/m PTO shafts will have 21 splines. Curious, let us know.
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Kinda anemic, sorry 'bout that but I hope it helps. Not sure if yours is wired this way.
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David,
You have to determine where the loose wires terminate and connect them, these are probably for your instruments.
You also have to determine why the main fuse blew (and keeps blowing). Check all connections and wires for chafing and shorts.
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Like the Wizard of Oz, I like to work behind the curtain with Beethoven, Rachmaninoff, and Wagner blaring…
(Plus I get to use the company computer which is 10x mine
)There will be a video.
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So as it were, Mr. Pythagoras, Mr. Euclid, and myself, burned some midnight oil and came up with a few very viable solutions to the steering clutch/brake issue. (I may think patent pending here).
Pneumatic
Hydraulic
Electric
Manual
It's all been worked out on paper, now the working model, which will use my dozer as the guinea pig for the most cost efective no-frills manual method.
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From the pic, it shows the fuel return line from the injectors going into a fitting on the air filter to intake manifold adapter. I can't make out what the blue wire is attached to, but typically the blue wire is for the glow plugs.
These injectors don't put a lot of fuel to the return line like unit injectors so it is more like a leak off line. In the '70's there was a company that made a pre-heater similar to what you might have but it also had a small push-pump mounted on the dash console that would spray diesel against a glowing plug, literally starting a small fire. This was used extensively by Cummins, Cat, AC, IH, and other small four stroke diesels. Haven't seen one in a long time.
Larry Gugliotta has been around the TBN, CTOA (old site member), and CTW tractor forums for as long as I can remember and should be considered a valuable trusted source of information. Too bad he has a BD2G, but I won't hold that against him.
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