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Grizz is correct, it's not a D6, BUT, it will do the work of a D3 (almost) – just takes longer. With only 60 hours and fresh lubricants, hydraulic oil, and coolant, sounds like a very good deal.
Caveats:
Take a grease gun and shoot a few zerks on the rollers and wishbone. If the zerks are tight and won't take grease, it has probably never been greased.
Check the zerk on the track adjuster – grease showing? Should be.
Maintenance and repair records?
How does it test drive?
If it doesn't have a shuttle clutch don't worry, it would only spoil you anyway.
It replaces the manual clutch and allows you to change direction without shifting gears. A sweet option.
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14 degrees?? No thanks, that sounds cold.
My roof ridge is about 15' on the inside so I will be installing a ceiling fan in the center bay. That will boost the efficiency of my heating system by getting all that warm air down where it belongs.
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Harbor Freight scaffolds were on sale. Much, much sturdier and heavier than I thought they would be. Great value IMHO.
“Bob, what did you use for insulation on the ceiling? My shop is like trying to heat a cave”
It's a very thick foam backed heavy vinyl that came in 5' widths and was pulled tight over the roof beams. The steel roof went directly over it. Not sure if could be installed after the fact though, but so far it seems to work pretty good. I had a 70,000 btu space heater going and it heated the place in about 10 minutes and stayed heated for about 6 hours.
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October 25, 2011 at 10:26 pm in reply to: Diagnosis of fuel line prob from old site: part availability? Return diesel circuit #33542Assume you are referring to the key switch (no ignition system on diesels).
Sounds to me like the main 30 amp fuse is blown. The fuse box is located close to the voltage regulator under the hood, but since you have the fiberglass model dozer I can't be certain of that. Do your lights and instruments seem to be working correctly?
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Did not know it was a “L” bracket instead of a “U” bracket.
Tommy has you covered.
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Measure the distance between the mounting ears of the bracket, next measure the length of the mounting foot of the alternator and deduct it from the “ears” measurement. The remainder is the length of the spacer, which can be cut from steel, brass, or aluminum stock, and center drilled.
Can't understand why you're breaking those bolts, they hardly have any loading. You can also drill out to 3/8″ and use a grade 5 3/8″ bolt.
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OK, now I think I know why they abandoned the pendulum pedal system (based on the assumption that all of your linkages and pedals are assembled correctly), but I believe I have a work-around solution and will start building a working model for you tomorrow. I start my day job work week tomorrow, so it's going to be a few days. You got me going now. Mr. Pythagoras will be my assistant.
Your total pedal travel is 7″, correct?
What is the total linear travel of the brake rod? You need ~5″ from full slack to full application?
What is the total linear travel of the steering clutch rod? How much travel do you need for full release?
I'm sure the brake bands only come in one size, but they can be shortened – not something you need to be doing.
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Flat faces are nice. I changed all mine over when I got the skid steer, even the Prince pump.
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Thanks.
Funny how that works, unfortunately things seldom go down in price.
FWIW: A 18″ hi-knap paint roller fully loaded with Kilz Premium weighs in at around 10 lbs. Jeez!
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Update:
First coat of sealer goes on.
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