Bob Rooks

Yes, this is the low pressure return side.  The return goes to the right, over near the “firewall”, and recycles through a “plastic bowl” filter apparatus which also has the fuel shut-off, and the supply line which leads to the high pressure injector pump.

This is not common to have the return line tee-in upstream of the sediment bowl, but it's acceptable.

I would presume from your comments that there is probably something like a “zerk” fitting nipple connector that has these plastic push on fittings which make the hook up of the return lines easier:

The fittings are straight. The plastic lines do become brittle and leak. They can be easily replaced with 1/4″ fuel hose available at any auto parts store. They just push on.

On to the danged plastic “clear” water/sediment collector. 

I took it off, as it looked cloudy, and discovered there was zero water or sediment in the fuel: a good thing:

It would be a good move to check your tank also since the fuel pick up is off the bottom.

but putting the bowl back on was problematic, as the plastic had swollen enough to not allow easy reinsertion.  Anyway, before trimming the circumference down with a grinder, I've ordered a clear glass bowl from NAPA for $11: I'll know this afternoon if it fits.

Precisely what I did.

My “new theory” is a vacuum lock arising from the unvented fuel tank, combined with the leaks in the return line, allowing air entry, prohibiting any engine RPM above idle.

Quite possible, but I've never seen an unvented fuel cap on a tractor.

1 – Engine Oil.  The picture points to a hamburger just behind the fan.  Any idea where the dipstick or other such device might be?

If you have the TY395E engine it will be lext to the flywheel housing on the left lower side of the engine. 15w-40.

2 – Clutch Case.  Yep I see it.  Is it a dipstick? if so is it the type that you sit on top to check or screw in completely?

Yes. Sits on top.

3 – Shuttle clutch hydraulic tank.  How do I check this one?

Some will have a sight gauge just like the other side. If you have a thick steel boss welded to the reservoir near the top, that's where one goes (I have one there), otherwise just remove the screen from the filler and use a clean stick (dowell).

4 – Other hydraulic tank.  I see the site gauge but do I relieve all the pressure in the lines first by actuating all the levers?  Does it matter?

No. Just make sure the blade is centered and resting on the ground. TPH should be lowered.

4a – by the way, I've been lowering the blade and hitch almost to the ground with the engine running then after shutting off the engine I lower them the rest of the way.  Is this ok? bad practice?

Curious why you do that? Best to lower with engine running but it doesn't really matter. It's an open center system.

5 – Final drive.  I looked in the big plug where the manual points.  Hmmm yep I see a big gear.  so what.

The big plug is the filler plug, the smaller plug below it is the tattletale that shows the correct level when the machine is sitting level (and the plug removed).

6 – Gear box.  Same question as 2.  dipstick? sit on top or screw in?

On top – always.

7- Injection pump oil.  Is there such a thing to check?  I heard it mentioned in other threads but the manual doesn't indicate it as a lubrication point.

There should be a small dipstick on the governor, they share a common sump. There is also a 6mm tattletale plug midpoint up the side – maybe, and a 6mm drain plug on the bottom – maybe. Mine doesn't have a drain, I use a Mitey-Vac.

The rest are Zerks and I think I get that.

The zerks are all brass and they will get broken off, sooner if not later. I replaced all of mine with steel ones from NAPA. Cheap.

don't know what kind of grease to use but I can ask Keno what they used.

Should be NLGI-1 rated, lithium based. Lubriplate works well if you want to pay $$$.

Tinbender wrote:

I noticed I'm still “Lifetime” and “Elite”

I'll try taking a shower, maybe that'll help.

Doing this while rocking & rolling around on a ship, dropping signals and all, ain't that easy.

Here are two more suggestions.

#1 will change the brake geometry.

#2 will change the pedal height.

Consider either or both. These should be fairly easy to accomplish.

“Have you tried working on your 21st century vehicle lately? “

Actually, I can't do much more than just service and tinker with it. If any other work needs to be done the whole cab assembly must be lifted off, and I'm not going there so off to the dealer it goes.