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1) Both pedals pushed in half way at the same time both tracks stop every time.
That indicates the steering clutches are releasing properly, but maybe a little late.
2) On both sides the clutch arm and brake arm are actuating simultaneously.
Not right.
3) The pins for the brake arm are fully aft in their slots when the pedal is at rest.
Not right.
4) the left pedal comes to a dead stop about the right distance from the bulk head but I'm not sure what is stopping it. It sounds like one of the pivots is hitting inside the tower. The right pedal hits the bulkhead.
The left pedal should be a “soft” stop, like the brake on your truck. Right is wrong.
5) The video shows me bottoming out the pedal every time. Sometimes the track stops nicely (I can even feel a bit of a jerk) and sometimes it just keeps rolling on like I did nothing other than release the clutch.
Not right.
6) Most of the time I can't turn shorter than the width of my street..I'd say about 30 feet.
Not right.
7) It seems to work better in 1st gear low box but even that is inconsistent.
Yes, that is normal (not the inconsistent part).
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Sorry to hear that Rich.
Look closely to see how the aftermarket cylinders would change the pin-to-pin geometry when the bucket is fully uncurled (dumped).
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“so those few times when I pressed the pedal to the floor and the track just kept on going is normal? “
No. If only the clutch releases you will still get some turning action (that's the way it's really supposed to work).
“hmmm guess I gotta rethink things a bit. The turning radius on this thing is huge if that's the case. My ram quad cab turns shorter!”
The dozer should be able to turn on a dime – literally. I couldn't tell that you had the pedals down hard. It sounds to me like the brakes are just not applying strong enough, assuming that the clutches are releasing enough.
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As near as I can tell they both seem to be working, and I heard the squeal from the right clutch. What I didn't hear was a change in engine tone when you went from right to left and back, but maybe that's just me.
Curious what you find when you check the drain plugs and pop the covers – hope nothing.
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The brake will only stop the track if the steering clutch is released, if that's what you mean. Otherwise you will smoke the brake – or kill the engine.
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“Actually no, I've just decided I'm not doing anything.”
Just take a deep breath and count to ten. Tomorrow is another day.
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Nope, it applies to both types. My pedals do the same thing and are subject to the same procedures except they are mounted under the deck plates.
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You won't necessarily feel the transition from clutch to brake, but the pedal should become slightly stiffer as you pick up the band tension. Adjust the brake so the pedal stops firm within 1″ of the bulkhead, that's why I suggested temporarily disconnecting the clutch pull rod.
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Another thing you can do is to “reverse engineer” the brake pedal adjusting procedure by adjusting the full brake application (don't do any band readjusting). You will have to disconnect then reconnect and readjust the clutch linkage for this.
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