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I just can't imagine the bands being installed backwards, but I suppose it's possible.
Here is a pic of a new band. You can tell if this has happened by removing the top cover, and clutch arm linkage, and comparing your findings with the diagram in the manual.
Easy way to check for oil in the steering compartment is to remove the larger hex plugs on the bottom of the compartments.
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Yes, I can see both arms moving.
“My next move is to tighten up the brake linkage so that brakes are applied all the time. This is just a test to see if there are any brakes on this machine. If I push in the clutch pedal the clutch should disengage and the brakes should be on full hard. That track should stop dead.”
This may not work if the steering clutch is not properly adjusted too, and you stand a chance of either peeling off a lining from the band or breaking a band anchor point. Maybe try it very cautiously?
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Nice video.
The clutch and brake pull rods are supposed to move simultaneously but the arms are not. The brake pull rod has a slotted “sequence fork” and pin to allow it to lag behind the steering arm.
I'm currently rewriting the adjusting procedure and removing the “Chinglish”. Should have it ready sometime today.
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If I was there we could have it all done in less than an hour (except maybe for the deck plate).
The first portion of pedal travel is for the steering clutch only, that's why the slotted piece for the brake arm, the remainder of travel is for both. Sounds like that slotted piece needs to be adjusted way out more and the clutch lever adjusted in until there is only 1/4″ – 1/2″ of freeplay in the pedal..
Looking forward to the video.
From the manual:
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I found that I had to chase the threads in the holes and on the bolts to get a satisfactory feel. It wasn't needed again after that.
If I had to guess the proper torque on the bolts to snug up against the band, I'd say 25 – 35 inch pounds to prevent dimpling.
The clutch and brake linkage rods will move simuntaneously, however the brake arms should not until about 3-1/2″ of pedal travel (the first 3-1/2″ is to release the steering clutch) at which point the brake linkage engages the brake arm and the rest of the pedal travel is brake and clutch combined. You must have a slotted piece of linkage at the end of the brake linkage rod to adjust this under the deck plates where this all takes place. I would make a removable section of deck plate because you will never be able to do this whole operation from underneath.
I'd probably call Eric's mechanic at least one more time and ask him how he did it without removing the deck plates. Zen maybe?
The simultaneous movement of clutch and brake arms would explain the squealing sound – clutch not fully released before brake application.
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Try the sequence I mentioned earlier. Turn in top bolt until it stops snug and leave it there, then turn in the bottom bolt until it stops and then back it off one turn and lock it. Then turn out the top bolt one turn and lock it.
More when I get home.
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Somehow my LW-6 pdf file got lost. Glad you could send yours.
If I remember correctly it should take around seven gallons to fill the cylinders, pump, and reservoir. Start with five gallons. You want to check the oil with all of the cylinders retracted, and to NOT LESS than 1″ below the fill pipe/vent tube.
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Hi Roger,
You didn't have to remove the coolant pump but you'll have to go deeper than that.
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