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Try THIS Moeller filter. It's the same type as the Baldwin except it's transparent.
That type of filter usually comes with a set of four hose clamps and two hose jumpers. You will have to remove a portion of the existing fuel line that is slightly longer that the filter body, or re-route the existing tubing to accommodate it. You may have to put a slight flare on the end of the tubing and clamp close to it.
This Racor filter is the one I would recommend, 10 micron w/ water separator, and it's transparent too.
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And again:
URL: ncghg.ce.ms/showthread.php?t=72291731
Name: Blackhole Exploit Kit (type 2061)Account deleted.
Kinda confirms what I've been saying.
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At the top left of the page click on “Inbox”, then click on “Compose a Message” then put the recipients name/s in the first box. Multiple names separated with a comma. The rest is self explanatory.
I just sent you a message.
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It's still happening to me:
URL: ikran2012.in/main.php?page=00e03d09ee7a506d
Name: Blackhole Exploit Kit (type 1889)Account deleted.
Phil wrote:
“The shut off valve for the fuel tank is in the sediment bowl assembly and this assembly must be removed to check/clean the the screen hence the need to drain the fuel tank. What am I missing?”
Sorry 'bout that. If you have the type of bowl assembly that has the screen in the nipple, remove that screen an toss it. I was referring to the bowl assembly that has the round screen just under the glass.
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pepage wrote:
“Are you telling me I have to drain the fuel tank every time I do a fuel filter change?”
Of course not, where did you get that? If you store fuel in bulk you should most definately treat it, otherwise just a spoonfull (or follow instructions) of biocide for every 10 gallons.
The fuel sediment bowl already has a very fine removeable/cleanable screen in it. I believe it's about 20µ. The banjo bolt is about twice that. But to answer your question, yes. You can get the in-line disposable transparent pleated paper type and change it out when it starts to get dark.
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pepage wrote:
“My solution was to remove this screen and the screen in the banjo bolt on the bottom of the primer unit thinking that the fuel filter should due the filtering. Why have more restrictions the the fuel system?”
The screen in the sediment bowl and banjo bolt act as your primary fuel filters. Usually there will be primary and secondary spin-on or cannister fuel filters, but these smaller less costly machines don't have them (that includes most all CUT's. They are all cheap by commercial standards). Even my Mustang with a Yanmar diesel doesn't have a real primary fuel filter. So what I'm getting at is that the bugs are highly corrosive and can eat away the steel valve seats in your lift pump causing the loss of fuel pressure and eventually (over a short time) cause the engine to shut down – like running out of fuel, and you'll be scratching your head. The brown sludge you mentioned are diesel bugs – billions of microscopic Cyanobacteria.
Word of caution – don't get them in your mouth. Bad Ju Ju.
We will see more bug issues in the future because the sulfur in the fuel which aided in the lubrication of pump parts, etc., also acted as a form of biocide and arrested the prolific growth of the bugs. And the sulfur is slowly going away. First it was Low Sulfur Diesel (LSD), then it was Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD), and I speculate the next step will be No Sulfur Diesel (NSD). Actually, the bugs are always in the fuel anyway, it's only when they come in contact with moisture that they become a problem.
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cjimmybond wrote:“ok, but i thought they used a dry liner like a perkins engine”Detroits have dry sleeves also but I've seen it happen on them too.It's all about liner projection and cleanliness.Account deleted.
My vote is for the head gasket or, God forbid, a cracked liner or block at the liner land.
It's too bad there was such a time lag between the overhaul and the symptoms.
Chances are any warranty has expired, but give it a try anyway. Bummer.
No oil cooler on these engines.
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