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Don't expect to get a lot of response from the brakes at high speeds, you're dealing with a lot of inertia there relative to the size of the bands.
Squealing while turning indicates the clutch plates are contacting each other, probably because the brake is coming on a little early, or the plates aren't separating fully. This may go away in a few more hours of operation. If not, you will have to readjust the clutch and brake sequence.
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The first 1/2″ to 3/4″ of pedal travel will be just for taking up the slack in the linkage.
(On larger dozers there are separate handles and levers for the steering clutches and brakes. There just isn't room on the Yuchai's so the dual functions are combined into a single sequential system using only pedals.)
The next 1″ to 2″ of travel will be for the release of the steering clutch, the remainder of travel is to keep the steering clutch released PLUS application of the brake. Total pedal travel is about 5-1/2″.
The top cover plate also contains the upper pivot for the clutch release fork shaft (upper separating fork shaft), so in answer to your question – yes, and no. You can remove the plate to see but you can't move anything, and you can't see much.
“Push both clutches in but not the brakes and the tractor should stop every time.”
In theory yes, but not necessarily. Depends on condition of the clutches. They could drag a little, and the tractor isn't that heavy so it could roll on easily.
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No handles on this one Larry, it has the pendulum foot pedals, and I agree with what you say.
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It's a steel walled & roofed post building. 24' x 30' with 10' x 10' doors and 12' free span inside..
It was relatively inexpensive – $15k for everything. Contractor had it up in 3-1/2 days, totally completed including concrete and doors in 5 days. If it were me, I'd still be working on the purlins…
I was pretty much constrained by the amount of useable land – it's literally benched into a hillside. The style is conventional, with a 4-12 roof, eaves on the front, none on back, no windows in the walls.
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Thanks.
Hoping to get the concrete sealer on and the inside painted out during my next week off.
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Grizz wrote:
“I see you've got a couple of nice halogen light stands but you chose to use a step ladder with clamp-on incandescents… weather hasn't turned cool enough yet for those halogens?
“Ha ha ha. Those are 28 watt CFL's in the clamp-on's, and the red light stand is a 65 watt fluorescent. The yellow halogen is only 300 watts, combined – didn't do squat if it was completely dark. The 16' light strips on the trusses are T8, 38 Watt (each), Triphosphor (High Output and Efficiency) fluorescent tubes. It is better than daylight in there, just haven't put the other lights away yet.
The R-tech styro (film on both sides) is 2-1/2″ thick. Comes in 4 x 8 sheets, and had to cut to fit between the 2 x 6 girts. I believe it is R-13.
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They also make a kit where you can convert it to use your cordless drill instead of turning a crank.
Got plenty of red & blue heads.
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Correct. Those are the long bolts with the lock nuts. On page 31 of the manual it isn't specific about the sequence of taking up on these bolts but I believe it is important to tighten the upper ones (back of tractor) first, pushing the brake band down and around towards the front thereby minimizing the slack at the top rear. Tightening the bottom bolts next continues to force the band towards the front, permitting the best adjustment.
The only things I can think of that would give the symptoms you describe is:
a) A band that is bent warped, or out of round.
b) Lining that is loose on the band or has broken and tried to overlap itself.
c) Oil or grease on the lining.
When the bands are installed care must be taken to ensure they are as true round and fit to the hub as possible, otherwise you will get inaccurate adjustments and possibly a “spongy” pedal. There is nothing to “seat in”.
Member “Mailman55” has a rather unothodox way of adjusting the brakes and clutches , maybe he will chime in.
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Rmon,
My back was broken in three places in a motorcycle accident. Crushed L1, L2, L3. I was in traction for two weeks, and wore an aluminum back brace for two years. I know your pain all too well. If you haven't had an X-Ray or Cat scan, get one immediately otherwise you could be talking partial paralysis – or worse. Don't even think of self-diagnosing! If the pain goes into your legs it could be the sciatic nerve being pinched. I speak from experience, Vicodin and Morphine were the only thing that helped me, plus muscle exercises. Glad to say that I'm back at 98% and fully functional with very little pain. I only take the meds when absolutely necessary.
Please download and use iespellcheck, it will help straighten out the pain drug-induced spelling quirks, and we can understand you better.
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