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I stand corrected if it is a vacuum pump, however, John said there was a hose that went to the “air intake” and that's what threw me off. And not having a pic to look at (for me) is like shooting blanks in the dark and hoping to hit the bull's eye.
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Ha ha, Satellite phone. You can run, but you can't hide.
You'd have to be pretty hardcore important to have one tho… (imho)
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If you have G3/4 on your cell phone then no problem. You can go to pda.net and download the free app to use to tether your phone to a laptop (or even a desktop). Works great. I'm using it right now. Works anywhere the phone does.
Congrats on the new dozer, Tom will treat you right!
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Grizz wrote:
“I don't know about the OP but for me, if I was doing such a repair, there would be long gaps between steps. The location for the tractor is far far from internet access. I believe many on here have the same condition.”
You are absolutely right, and I apologize. I'm just so used to having everything at arms reach (smart phone tethered to laptop when in the field, or just the smart phone alone). Technology has really spoiled me I guess.
Personally I'm still on the edge of my seat for that other thread about tearing down the Guilin dozer that other guy has.
Yep, the fellow with the real nice shop.
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Well Larry shed a lot of light on the subject. There should be then, three hoses on the air pump: a) Oil in. b) Air in. c) Air out. I'll speculate that the “oil in” hose has a very small orifice located in it somewhere (provides a slight mist of oil to lubricate the vanes, probably in the fitting where the hose attaches to the side of the engine block oil gallery, however it could also be in the other end of the hose where it attaches to the air pump. It could also be an integral part of the pump. This orifice is probably plugged.
This system is nothing new or unique. It is/was used by GM on a lot of their vehicles, and also BMW, Jaguar, etc. There are also vacuum pumps built for racing.
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RayH wrote:
“As you loosen and then tighten each line, you will hear the engine sound different. If there is no difference, that is the bad injector.”
This is not always the case. You could have a dribbling injector that otherwise appears to perform normally. This issue usually manifests itself during startup with or without tattletale exhaust smoke, and can also be detected on a pyrometer or by checking firing pressures.
“Remove bad injector and replace the tip.”
Replace it with what? Wasn't aware that individual components were available for these injectors, particularly on the retail level. Are they interchangeable with another brand/type?
“You will probably find the center spindle in the tip stuck solid.”
What is a spindle in an injector?
“It is set by the adjusting screw on top of injector.”
Where is this screw?
And for the record, it is not my intention to diminish the value of your contribution, but to just qualify accuracy and ask a couple of legitimate questions.
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That's great to know, lots of maneuvering.
Unpin the top of the sweeps and pull the ROPS. If you had a gantry inside you could use it to lift the saddlebag frame assembly saving a whole lot of hassle. Unbolt all of the remaining bolts holding the saddlebag frame to the differential, transmission, and front ROPS mounts and lift the whole assembly up about 8″ to 10″ (tilt up from rear), that's all you'll need to clear the final drives and have good access. I'll post a pic when I get home.
You won't have to take it down quite this far, but it gives you a general idea of where you're headed. I would also dissasmble and qualify the steering clutches while I'm in that deep.
Btw, this isn't my pic. I gleaned it from somewhere in the old forums, when they weren't old.
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