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Used to use your method to get Cats out of the woods to where we could work on them.
(Ok, we'll try it your way first since this will have to be done anyway.)
First remove the seat, linkage, and cover plates from the steering compartments. Let me know what you find.
I asked if you had a ROPS, do you? This can be used to lift the saddlebags away from the frame. An overhead gantry crane can be very helpful here, otherwise you'll be doing it the hard way.
Approximately how many hours on the machine?
(Using this as an example – FYI everyone: This is a great reason to keep your feet off the pedals unless you're using them, and this is true of ANY machine. Riding the pedals equates to premature failures, machine down time and a lot of extra unnecessary work.)
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Tin,
My TY395 has a solenoid on the end of the intake manifold with a ~1/2″ ID steel tube coming directly from the exhaust manifold. The solenoid is regulated by a jacket water temperature sensor. When the engine reaches a predetermined temperature the solenoid is energized and lets exhaust gasses mix into the intake manifold. This, along with the PCV system, makes for some pretty cruddy intake air, not even sure it's working…
I think with the air pump, air was injected directly into the exhaust manifold just downstream of the ports. Could be wrong tho…
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Hi Grizz, come along for the ride.
I forgot to ask. Hilltrac, have you adjusted the brake bands before?
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Ok, first you'll have to safely block it up and then remove the tension from the tracks by backing off the idler. Then drop the tracks and remove the sprockets. Next you will have to remove the seat for better access to the top of the steering compartments.
Do you have the ROPS?
Doubt you will need the 3/4 drive for this, you might twist off a fastener.
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Hi hilltrac, welcome.
Because of it's age I believe you have a Guilin dozer. Before digging into this project I have to ask; what are your abilities, and what are the facilities you will be using. I have a series of pics to use as a guide. More than likely the lining has become saturated with oil from a bad seal in the differential which will have to be replaced as well. There are drain plugs for the steering compartments that must be checked regularly for this.
Parts are available at Circle G Tractors and probably some other dealers that sell the dozers. You will have to check with the dealers for parts compatability.
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The pump sounds like it is getting very dirty air. The pump will have to be rebuilt or replaced – it sounds like the vane surfaces are badly scored (which is chewing up the vanes) or the side clearances are too tight. How clean is your air filter?
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Hi John, welcome.
I'm not all that familiar with Fonton tractors, but I believe the pump on the back of the alternator is an air or vacuum pump that is used in conjunction with a type of EGR valve, that is part of the emissions system. Does it have a hose running to the air cleaner? Have pics?
I think the electrical problems are coincidental and unrelated.
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Shell Tellus T-32 is the WRONG oil! Use Shell AW Hydraulic 32 or Tellus 32.
Some comparisons here.Btw, you didn't have to start a new thread.
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It's strange Carl, but I used to think the same way. Then, as my career morphed, it required more knowledge in a lot of areas. Lubrication was one of them. I found in my studies and research (and also practical experience), that there are very specific reasons for the multitude of lubricants, base stocks, and additive packages available to the consumer and professional today. I try to give the best advice I can not based solely on empirical data.
I like to think that we (collectively) are somewhat more sophisticated in our approach to tractor lubrication than the people that design the Chinese manuals.
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