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Hi Frank, welcome to the new site.
He bot it new and duzn't know what year he bot it in?
These are Chinese, they are not licensed, there is no VI#, just a s/n, and I don't know that it has any real correlation to the date of manufacture.
What was the year and month of the original purchase, and from whom was it purchased?
What does it say on the original sales receipt?
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That's right Carl. The thread's title is “the right fluid to use”, and by that I assume he meant the correct oil to use. I know you're a master mechanic and you know lubricants, so why??
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Curious where you downloaded that info because it's inaccurate. Most hydraulic oils below AW-46 do not carry an AGMA rating and are not indicated for geared drives because they aren't formulated for it. Or maybe you are misconstruing the use of hydraulic oil with Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF) which in some cases it is used in the transmission, differential, and hydraulic system on some OTHER tractor brands.
And to expound on Rich's post a little: Engine oils generally make poor gear lubricants mainly because of their additive packages and the lack thereof. There are some gear lubricants that are formulated for extreme shear like hypoid and worm drive sets where there is a lot of sliding tooth contact not found in spur gear configurations. Still, you need a lubricant formulated for the task. It's actually very simple: Engine oil for engines, gear oil for gears, and hydraulic oil for hydraulics.
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Hi Stephan,
Assuming your air cleaner is ok, it sounds like you have an over-fueling issue caused by sticking/dirty fuel injectors, and possibly fuel injection pumps. Once the problem has come this far there is nothing that preventive maintenance steps can do to eliminate it, like changing fuel filters, etc. You can try running some Diesel Kleen or equivalent through the fuel system – it may or may not help you.
Since fuel injectors for these engines are so inexpensive, it may not be economically feasible to have them cleaned. Just replace them. Don't forget to order the copper sealing washers too.
I cannot over-emphasize how important it is to have clean bug-free fuel.
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What does your manual call for?
Tinbender called it correctly, and I second that.
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The white smoke is unburned fuel from a cold combustion chamber. You could have dribbling injectors (pintle and seat are dirty), you could also have a dirty air cleaner. I recommend taking the injectors to a diesel shop for cleaning.
Did this happen all at once or grew progressively worse over time?
Do you notice any loss of coolant or cross contamination with the lube oil?
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Ben wrote:
“The flat stock is 3/8 they cut it at the welding shop,but it's to long hits of the 3pt. hitch arm..when i rev it up to 1500-2000 rpms it hits the arm and makes a weird sound…”
WHOA! Stop right there! If your PTO turns clockwise the reaction bar must be on the right side of the pump, pulling the chain tight when the pump is running. If your PTO turns counter-clockwise the reaction bar must be on the left side of the pump, pulling the chain tight when the pump is running. The chain should be as short as possible and still allow the pump to float without coming off the shaft. One way to test this is to physically try to pull the pump off, without the tractor running of course.
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Try here.
The JW-03 and LW-6 are very similar and some components are interchangeable.
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Nice pics too! 
Enjoy! 