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Hi Ben,
Don't do anything more 'til I get back in a couple hours. So far so good
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Ben,
That “piece of pipe” is an internally splined hollow shaft that slides over your existing splined shaft. That pump setup uses an overdrive transmission (gearbox) that allows the pump to change direction of rotation and run at engine speed when your PTO is engaged in the “540” position. Yes, the hoe will have to be fully functional to perform this. Do not run the pump dry or deadhead it.
I'm not familiar with your tractor so it may not have the provision to mount a tang drive pump after all. Looked at your pics and you may have that mounting buried underneath the bracketry.
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Was your dealer aware that your tractor was NOT a Jinma? Your tractor MAY have a four-bolt plate just above the splined PTO shaft that covers the tang drive for the PTO pump – this is where that pump would attach. If you don't have that cover plate then you will have to either plumb the hydraulics off of the tractor's system or get a Prince PTO pump.
The “center arm” or adjustable top link you are referring to attaches to the seat support. Just below the seat are three or four holes for that purpose.
You are going to want to flush the hydraulic system and give the reservoir a thorough cleaning before putting the hoe into service. You will want to use ISO AW 32 hydraulic oil which is available almost everywhere.
You're on the right track Ben.
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mbemerson wrote:
“Rest assured I have ROPS protection.”
ROPS isn't quite the same as FOPS (Falling Object Protection Structure).
This poor fellow may have thought the steel cab was good enough, where it was nothing more than a “sunshade”. He was 29 and a new father.
To explain how things can go from bad to worse in a split second. The force of the cab going back pushed the control levers backwards, exacerbating the force of the bucket and stick against the trunk.
Just sayin' stay safe, know your machine and it's (and your) capabilities.
Want to keep you around.
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mbemerson wrote:
“I was doing some heavy hitting today – pushing trees over,”
Unfortunately, trees have been known to push back sometimes.
Not a good idea without ROPS/FOPS protection. Just sayin'…
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The view alone is worth it!
Tommy wrote:
Bob Rooks, not again !!!!! it's not a pressure regulating valve .
How do you know unless you check it with a special backflow preventer test gauge? One that reads water pressure and not air or fuel pressure…
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New one on me. Didn't know backflow preventers also regulated pressure.
How does that work?
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Is this your water meter valve? Backflow preventer? I know in some cases the utility companies base their monthly charge on the size of the valve and meter. I think 1″ is pretty much standard anymore for rural areas, maybe 3/4″ for metro?
I see this is the backflow preventer. I'd stay with 1-1/4″ just so you get to keep the volume. Don't know the difference in cost between the 1-1/4″ and 1″ valves.
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Depending on the size of your lines and what you will be filtering:
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