Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Glad you liked it. A little education can save a lot of time time & money, which is another reason why I'm such a big fan of using oil analysis as a diagnostic tool.
Account deleted.
@ Plan B:
Glad Keno came through for you. If I recall correctly there should be about three gallons of oil in/for the clutch housing and about five gallons in/for the reservoir.
@Grizz:
Some more light reading, including the advantages of synthetic oils.
Account deleted.
I think I'm making it way more complicated than it needs to be while trying to remain brand-neutral so I'll try another approach:
Select any brand of ISO AW 220 hydraulic oil (I know) that has an AGMA rating (Bingo!). That will do it. You will get the correct additives with the correct base stock. All you have to do is call your local petroleum distributor. You won't find this on the shelf in any auto parts stores, but they should be able to order it for you.
You can make a career out of lubrication engineering, many people do.
(I wouldn't worry about hijacking too much unless someone complains. :))
Account deleted.
Grizz wrote:
“or perhaps this pdf is more complete….do you see what you are looking for anywhere in here?”
Yep, all over the place. I remember that article, used to subscribe to that mag.
Account deleted.
Grizz wrote:
“Is this the stuff you are referring to?”
Yes and no
. They are referring to “machine oil” generically.The VG designation refers to the Viscosity Grade of the base stock.
The AW designation refers to Anti-Wear additive package.
Oils are formulated from base stocks with specific additive packages for specific applications. Some oils are a “compromise”, but generally will perform better in one application or another.
Light reading:
Chevron ISO AW 220 Machine Oil. Shell Tellus AW 220 Mobil SHC 600 Series
Are there ISO AW 220 oils that are NOT machine oil?
Yes. Specific hydraulic oils, turbine oils, etc.
Account deleted.
I agree with Tin.
Lots of people and companies “stockpile” fuel. Nothing wrong with that at all. I do it too. What I have found to be my Achilles heel for fuel storage is the regular atmospheric vent, where fuel vapors mix freely with air so when in conditions of high humidity or cool fog the condensation just goes beserk. I remedied that situation by installing pressure/vacuum fill caps on my storage tanks. They thread into a standard 2″ NPT (drum bung) and have a removeable cap and seal not unlike a large radiator cap. Free air cannot pass. Seems to work, haven't had bugs for quite awhile now, but I still test.
Account deleted.
The correct oil to use in the shuttle clutch is ISO AW 220 MACHINE OIL. This particular oil has an AGMA rating. Any brand will do.
Check with Circle G on these pumps: CBT-E3 and HLCB-D06. Eric at Keno, Tommy at Affordable, and Ronald at Ranch Hand should also stock these pumps.
Don't expect a lot of pressure, only 35 – 45 psig, and don't expect a lot of volume either, it's a pretty small pump. Another reason you aren't getting much pressure is that the accumulator isn't charged. Do NOT attempt to take it apart.
Did you check the pump suction screen in the clutch housing? Plugged? The mere fact that some oil is coming out tells you that the pump is working.
Account deleted.
You might also want to check the relief valve in that pump, it may just be stuck.
I will also speculate that the tractor was run for quite awhile with the original crapoil in the clutch before it was changed over to the wrong oil, and then possibly run dry, however that scenario could be reversed.
When you get the number off of the pump, contact one of the stocking dealers that contribute to this site and compare numbers. You may still have to compare bolt patttern dimensions, drive tang, etc.
Account deleted.
