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Phillip @ Circle G Tractor, Eric @ Keno Tractor, or try any of the contributing dealers on this site. I will speculate that it may be the same pump used on the 304/354 Jinma wheeled tractors for power steering but I have yet to verify this. Does your pump have a name plate on it?
Circle G has quite an extensive inventory of dozer parts online.
The gauge on the return filter won't show any pressure anyway unless there there is a restriction in the filter. The filter also has a built-in 15 psig by-pass valve. You may get the needle to jump a little when the oil is cold while exercising the selector (rotate) valve.
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Plan B wrote:
Ok i hauled it to my inlaws house to work on it. We ran it and from what i can see there is an accumulator in left saddle bag and a tank like i said before. Not sure what kind of oil is in it but it looks like regular hydro. Where is this screen at? Should be a three bolt flange on the bottom right side of the clutch housing, which is the pump suction. You may have a return line filter in the left saddlebag also, or instead of.
Whats the direction of the oil flow? Im guessing it sucks from the bottom right side of the clutch housing and sends pressure to the “T” fitting between the tank and rotate valve. Correct.
Im not so sure the pump is pumping anything cause when you work the rotate valve nothing pressures up….no hoses move at all!! but the blade controls on right side work great!! There are two independent hydraulic systems, one for the clutch and one for tractor hydraulics.
and there seems to be a pump for each side..one mounted on back and one mount directly in front of it. Am i right? Correct. The pump in front is for the clutch only.
any idea what the psi i should be and where i should check it? Im guessing at that “T”. Pressure should be between 35 and 45 psig. The tee would be a good place to tap into, and make certain that you don't deadhead the pump.
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I use Hammond's BioBor JF which is available at most marine and aviation outlets.
Every six months I test my fuel with a Hum-Bug test.
I cannot overstate the damage these bugs can do to a fuel system, even dead ones.
There are lots of fine fuel biocides on the market, the problem is educating people to use them, or at least test their fuel for them. That said, if you go through a tank every week and purchase your fuel from a high volume source you are probably OK.
If not, it's cheap insurance to test it once in awhile.
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Greg wrote:
“Oh I forgot. Got a stereo in it too so I can rock out to some classic rock.”
At PACCAR Truck R&D we had a 1,000 watt home made stereo in our two bay shop that one of the engineers built. It was awesome playing “Inagodadavida”. Probably where some of my hearing went. Be careful with that stuff…
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Find out what kind of oil is in the shuttle clutch, this is important.
More than likely the pump suction screen has never been cleaned, this will prevent the pump from scavenging the clutch housing.
There are no check valves in the shuttle clutch hydraulic system.
Your manual is on it's way.
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That is one beautiful shop!!
Reminds me of when I worked for Caterpillar. They spared no cost on their new shop. Even had dual railroad tracks embedded in the concrete floor for driving the crawlers on, and every service bay had a 10 ton gantry crane like yours. We never lifted anything heavier than a ham sandwich. 
If that failed weldment is where I think it is, the later (Yuchai?) wishbone design incorporated a full width upper and lower gusset plate.
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You may still have bugs unless you treat your fuel with a biocide. I would also inspect the screen in the top of your new sediment bowl with a mirror periodically to see if it is beginning to turn black from dead bugs (sludge).
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Thanks, and I forgot to mention that you can't make a pusher fan just by turning the fan around. That won't work.
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There should be about three gallons of oil in the shuttle clutch housing and about five gallons of oil in the left saddlebag reservoir when the engine is stopped. There are a couple of reasons why the dozer won't move: 1) Failure of the shuttle clutch input shaft splines. (This requires engine removal and clutch component disassembly). 2) Hydraulic issues. Some can be repaired without much disassembly, others not so.
I have a manual for the shuttle clutch on a PDF file that I can send you along with some helpful hints by another owner, although if you want my help you must answer my questions, so I will reiterate:
Need to know if your shuttle clutch has a hydraulic accumulator in the left saddlebag, and also if the left saddlebag contains a dedicated hydraulic oil reservoir for the shuttle clutch.
PM me with your email addy.
I'm not very good at mind reading anymore – too many women…
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