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I have had little luck with Skill and B&D cordless “consumer” tools. I have a Skill industrial quality 18v cordless 3/8″ VSR drill that came with two NiCd batteries and a quality charger and I'm very pleased with it. Holds a charge for about six weeks and charges up in about a hour. B&D no longer makes industrial quality tools to my knowledge. I also have the DeWalt 18v NiCd cordless package that includes a 1/2″ VSR drill/driver, gooseneck light, circular saw, and a full size reciprocating saw. So far the batteries hold up good with all the tools, hold their charge for over six weeks, and charge in about an hour. Also have a Ridgid Li-Ion cordless multi-tool – the batteries are very powerful, seem to hold a charge forever, and charge in about 45 minutes, but there is no tapering off when the batteries are dying. They go balls-to-the-wall and then drop dead.
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Friend of mine was diagnosed with the same type of cancer. Been off work for about 1-1/2 years getting treatments including chemo. He was finally declared cancer free with his second test. He will be back to work in July.
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From what you describe it sounds like a thermal turn signal flasher, a circuit breaker, or, God forbid – a voltage regulator. There is no place in a 12 volt circuit for 30 volts, so I suspect the problem is with your voltage regulator. Apparently your alternator is doing just fine. Carefully inspect your wiring and wiring harnesses for chafing and ground-outs. Someone else may know exactly what the problem is.
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Response to Post #2No, I will not make a video for you unless you pre-pay me to.It does not make any business since to spend the time on a video showing the check valve removed to sell or not sell a $10.00 valve. … plus 1/2 that to ship it USA.Ronald, you missed my point. A 30 second video clip of a tractor running on a dyno would be a fine testament to your shop's capabilities. You should even post it on your website (without the regulating valve part though).
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“While there is probably some truth in that a gauge does not know what someone is going to try and make it read …… but I think it hopes some ones knows what it was manufactured to read.”Pressure gauges can have ANYTHING labeled on them and can have any type of incremental face you want. You just pay the print shop.I did not know a Tire Pressure Gauge designed to read air would or could withstand the chemical reaction of diesel fuel (most all pressure gauges have a bronze Bourdon tube. What it's reading doesn't matter) or could withstand the constant beating (pulsing) from a piston pump? (your ignorance is beginning to show – you've never heard of a gauge snubber have you.) In your case… the check valve relieving… know what I mean?. No. You never had one to bust/leak/brake (you mean break?)…….. no safety issues to be concerned about ??? Maybe I will email some tire gauge manufactures first (researching info 1st) to hear what they say. Sure would be cheaper the way gauges sometime get beat up!. You're loosing me there Ronald.
I know you have already stated you did not understand when I said the word PRIME while I was posting about the lift pump.OK, lift pump = prime pump. I'll give you that.
But, damn if I know where you picked up on where I had inquired to you about possible employment !!!???You inferred that what I do for a living does not qualify me to speak on diesel engines.People that have worked for me in the past in that salary range had to be able to stay focus on a topic, not play on the computer while on the clock, multitask, be able to prove the book right or wrong to determine the problem, know what to do when there is no book and not ask me to do it for them. Good luck on your job search.Misunderstanding there. I gave you my job description. I have been a marine engineer for over 25 years. Would you like to compare pay checks?Thanks , but your qualification and actions from what I have seen and read on these boards that you have posted don’t seem like they would work in my shop… be a waste of time and money for the both of us.With all due respect Ronald, I agree that I'm over-qualified, besides that, you couldn't afford me. Since you're getting kinda personal here, I don't mean to brag but I could do your job in my sleep (and with much more accuracy), and I know that I can out-wrench anyone in your shop. I can also run your parts department too. Been there, done all that!Well you have successfully trolled me and brought me to my knees.I just want to say in ending that it was a pleasure doing business with you, you give very good service and are reasonably good at what you do. I wholeheartedly suggest that you take a couple of diesel courses at the community college level. It would be in your best interest. English and Grammar 101 also recommended.I digress…No, I will not make a video for you unless you pre-pay me to.Not a bad idea. Think I'll try that. Wonder how far I'll get. Bad Karma.Account deleted.
Job description for a Marine Engineer.
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Ronald wrote:
“Tell ya what do, need some more clarifications.
Need more pictures and videos that your very good at.
Like this one.>> CLICK HERE”
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Tell you what Ronald, I want to see a video of your
dynamometer test showing a closeup shot of the
injection pump with the regulating valve removed
and the engine at continuous full load and speed for
say, five minutes.
Will you do that for me?
It would also be a great sales tool for your shop.
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Ronald,
I'm going to start a new thread to continue this discourse. It will be easier to read.
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In this instance it's referred to as the Volume Control Valve (VCV).
Detroit Diesel calls it a Combination Pressure Regulator/Check Valve.
Uses are not limited in scope to diesel engines only. See here.
I could go on and on, but
My apologies to Dick for going off on a tangent in his thread. I only meant to clarify, not hijack.
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