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The voltage regulators are solid state. No ohm tests. Do you have a red LED on it that lights up when you turn the key on? Check to see if you have any blown fuses, also check to see if all your electrical connections are clean and tight.
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I suspect that you have one or two bad glow plugs because you should show at least a 20+ ampere draw on your meter. Internally shunted ammeters have a maximum 60 amp rating, but I’m guessing yours is 30-0-30 (30 amps) so it should almost peg the needle momentarily when you activate your glow plugs.
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Don’t know where you are in WA state, but if you’re near the southern border Keno Tractor in Keno, OR would be a good bet.
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Sounds like perhaps not all of the glow plugs are working, or working correctly. Simple rough test – connect one glow plug at a time and see how far the ammeter drops in 15 seconds for each one.
Now that you have a digital hand held tach you can mark the sweet spot on your tachometer for the PTO with arrows from your label maker.
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Bob, I attached a couple of pics and have few more questions. I see the bleeder screw on the side behind the manual pump, but I have not been able to break it loose.
Instead of the slotted screw on the side you can use the hex screw to the left of the first injector line, or you can just loosen the banjo bolt to the left of it.
Where is the secondary filter you mention in above?
The secondary fuel filter is the spin-on, the bleeder screw is in the head. The only thing you have for a primary filter is the screens in the tank, sediment bowl, and priming pump banjo fitting. And these will have to be thoroughly cleaned as well.
If I get a temp tank set up, where do I connect it in to get temporary operation with the problems I have?
Connect it to the suction side of the priming pump, the side that goes to the sediment bowl, but don’t connect it to the sediment bowl.
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You are not going to get fuel through the hard lines with the priming pump, so don’t even try. There is a bleeder screw on the side of the fuel injection pump and on top of the secondary filter housing (this filter is probably plugged as well). I suggest you make a temporary fuel tank from a 2 liter container so you can move the tractor.
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I see lots of live active bugs, the brown sludge. No doubt your tank walls are lined with them.
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I second what David said.
A lot of people don’t realize that a tarp, while keeping the rain off, also traps moisture, a lot of it, in the form of condensation. Even a tarp lean-to is better than a draped tarp because it doesn’t trap moisture.
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Bob could a small enough hole be drilled in the plug as a easy visual aid to tell if oil was present?
A hole that small will plug up with the first hint of 80w/90 gear oil and a little bit of dust. It’s just sound practice to pull the plugs periodically for inspection, and while you’re under there do a visual inspection for loose nuts and bolts. It’s responsible ownership.
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The plugs should be left in to prevent ingress of dust, moisture, and dirt. I have similar plugs in dry compartments on my dozer and include inspecting them as a regular maintenance item every 50 hours. You could also install a wire gauze filter, but that would run the risk of being knocked off.
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