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Very nice work!
The only thing I would have done differently is on the quick-connects; reverse one set so that there is a male and female opposite each other. That eliminates the possibility of getting them cross connected.
Good job!
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Okay, “respirator tube” aka crankcase breather.
Slight vapors are normal. You should not be getting coolant from there at all.
A blown cylinder head gasket, cracked cylinder head or liner, or liner seals.
Are you getting any coolant in the engine oil? Are you getting any engine oil in the coolant?
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I had to do some soft-solder reinforcing on my radiator, not a problem if you get it clean and bright. But I agree with Tommy, if you are inexperienced at this just take it to a radiator shop.
Also, I would install a coolant recovery system – it will keep air purged from your cooling system, which should be air tight.
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Respirator tube with a screen? Can you clarify please?
If you are referring to the little hose that is connected to the radiator cap neck it could be one of two things: 1) A defective radiator cap that isn't holding pressure. 2) A blown cylinder head gasket or cracked cylinder head or liner that is allowing combustion pressure into the cooling system and displacing the coolant.
Are you getting any coolant in the engine oil? Are you getting any engine oil in the coolant?
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Spring Valley wrote:
“Bob, I see that you went to a rating of Expert which is most deserved in your case. This seems to have happened at the time you passed 100 posts. Now my worry is what happens when an idiot posts over a 100 times?
“Thanks for the kind words Larry. I didn't even notice it. Don't know what Hal's criteria is. Maybe it's a seniority thing – I'm over 70 now.
I was always worried I'd get the MPP rating (Most Prolific Poster). Account deleted.
That's wierd. “Tapping” a transducer (sending unit) usually does more harm than good, but you win.
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Tin wrote:
“Bob Rooks wrote: Everyone knows you meant high range
Not only that, starting out in 4th would be a neat trick with only 3 forward gears
“
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Tin wrote:
“A friend pulled the amp gauge and on the back was a piece of mica board with a wire wrapped around it about ten wraps, and broken.”
That was your shunt.
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Are you sure you didn't break a wire in the process? Could be a simple fix.
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If I understand correctly then, the upper sensor is actually the sending unit for the temp. gauge, and what appears to be a pipe plug you are holding was removed from the hole on the right that now holds the new alarm sensor.
Note: Using Teflon tape can electrically insulate the sensor from the engine block, rendering it useless. I would test for continuity.
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