Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Bluenoser wrote:
“Here is a pic with the OEM on the right and the new pump on the right”
If I didn't know better, I'd say it's a conspiracy.
Why do I keep getting confused??
Account deleted.
Tin wrote:
“I would not even think of starting out in 4th gear low range.”
Everyone knows you meant high range.
Account deleted.
OK, that make sense – he blew the shunt.
But he still wants to call it a voltmeter, oh never mind…
Account deleted.
PaulCramer wrote:
“Had to split it so that I could access the throw-out bearing in the clutch area. In my case there were two roll-pins that attached the fork to the shaft. One of these roll-pins was smaller than the other and was inside the second roll-pin. I ended up removing the remains of these roll-pins and drilling the hole out to 1/4 inch diameter. Then I placed a 1/4 stainless steel bolt and lock nut in place of the pins. This has worked fine for several years since.”
That is exactly the point I've been trying to emphasize. If this hasn't happened to you and only the exterior roll pins have sheared, keep the “weak link” on the outside. Do not drill out and install a bolt on the outside unless you have already split the tractor and did what Paul did.
Account deleted.
Huh? A voltmeter doesn't have an “IN” and “OUT” like an ammeter does. These ammeters are internally shunted so full current passes through the meter. Now I'm really confused
Who cares though as long as it works, right?
Account deleted.
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I worked for PACCAR Truck R & D and was surprised to find how few of their own parts Pete and KW actually made. It may be different now, but at that time almost everything came “off the shelf” except the cabs and wiring harnesses.
Account deleted.
Also, that “buzzing” noise you heard could have been the pressure relief valve popped open, in which case you wouldn't be able to operate the controls. Make sure your PTO is in the 540 position and not the 1,000 position.
Account deleted.
Lenbo wrote:
Well I got my Prince pump yesterday and started to make the fittings for it. I went to two NAPA stores and the said they could not match it to my current hoses and did not have any fittings to make new hoses (they said the Prince pump had metric fitings – not so they didn't have a clue to the fitting size).
Your NAPA guys need to hit the books again. The Prince pumps are NOT metric: #8 (1/2″) O-ring Boss (ORB) on the discharge, and #12 (3/4″) ORB for the suction. You can purchase a #8 ORB x 1/2″ NPTF adapter, and the new pump should have come with a #12 ORB hose barb for the suction. On the discharge side of the pump be sure you use ALL schedule 80 fittings – do not compromise.
I did not put a filter on the suction due to no one having fittings for the hose ( I purchased one from Surplus). My next attempt will be a filter on the return line like Bob did.
#12 reusable female swivel will fit the suction hose, and make right up to 3/4″ pipe
I had two different shops make me adapters for my factory hoses to fit the Prince Pump. One shop made an externsion for the high pressure side and another made the suction hose. They made the suction hose the same size as the factory 5/8″ and I am thinking that is where my problem is.
Yep, I'll bet you're correct. Minimum size suction line for that pump is 3/4″.
I cleaned and pressurer washed the inside of the sump tank to make sure that all the rust was out of it, took out the PRV and cleaned it (there is a split white plastic spacer next to the “O” ring on the PRV, I take it that ring is split to be able to fit on the valve, if not do I need nother one? Then hooked everything up and filled the tank with NAPA RO (10 weight) hydraulic fulid ( could not find anyone around here that had or heard of mulit vescosity AW32/46/68) I feel like I am living on Mars when it comes to parts and modifying/repairing this tractor in this area.
Not sure where your NAPA guys get their info, but R&O oil is not formulated for hydraulic service (The R&O stands for Rust & Oxidation). It is primarily used in air and ammonia compressors with low temp. applications. Take it back if you can and get some AW 32 Hydraulic Oil.
When I started the tractor up and engaged the PTO the BH jumped to life and the cylinders were working, but when I put the rpms up to 1,200-1,500 the pump started to “BUZZ” and the controls stopped working.
You'll find that 1,000 to 1,300 r/m will give the most satisfactory results. Too high r/m will result in very rapid control action.
I am thinking that the return line is not big enough (5/8″) to produce the volume of suction needed and the pump is cavitating.
Correct.
I most likey need to start all over and get at least a 1″ suction hose and make an adapter for the fitting in the reservoir tank to remove the banjo fitting.
I used the hose that came on the banjo fitting, #12 reuseable fitting on it.
Account deleted.
That's impossible! Just cannot happen because you disconnected the negative (ground) cable from the battery, which is what you always do when working on electrical systems. You disconnected the ground cable instead of the positive one because you knew that you might accidentally touch the wrench to a steel part and cause a short circuit, possibly blowing up a perfectly good wrench.
I'm also very glad you had removed your watch and rings, that coming from someone that had to be reminded the hard way. And you never see a mechanic at work with a gold chain around their neck either.
Sorry, I don't know anything about wheeled tractors…
There is enough energy in a diesel starting battery to create and sustain an arc flash.
More about arc flashes here: http://www.google.com/search?q…..1I7GGIC_en
Account deleted.
