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Just so you know, not everyone has had problems with the bolt-on pump. There are quite a few members here that are very satisfied with their LW backhoe hydraulics.
I purchased my Prince pump from Surplus Center also (http://www.surpluscenter.com/i…..=hydraulic). Bear in mind that this is three times the pump as the OEM bolt-on, is heavier, and will have to be run in the 540 r/m position. If you get this pump be sure to get the reaction bar also (http://www.surpluscenter.com/i…..tem=9-6666) or make something similar with minimum of 1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 5/16″ angle iron.
I configured my pump with quick disconnect fittings one size larger than the hoses (3/4″ for discharge, 1″ for suction) to eliminate any possibilities of pressure drop or suction losses. Also, my pump stays on the tractor because it's easier for me just to unplug it using the quick hitch. I'd show pics but they're on the other 'puter.
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LenBo wrote:
That is a nice set up you made. I'll have to go to the store and make one like it. Probably get the filter & housing at a auto store and the pipe & conections at a hardware store.
Thanks. I purchased the filter and head at Surplus Center (http://www.surpluscenter.com/i…..=hydraulic). The bolt-on OEM pump is rated at less than 7 gpm if I recall so you should be OK. Unless you are operating in consistently high ambient temperatures I would recommend AW 32 hydraulic oil or AW 32/46/68 multi-grade hydraulic oil. Using a heavier oil in low ambient temps will increase heat build up due to shear and laminar flow friction, and could be part of your problem.
I was having too many issues with the LW-6 hoe so I sold it some time ago. I now have a LiTW BH7600 (Korean hoe with Swiss valves) and am very pleased. My horror stories are in the old forums. The LW-6 had the standard 14″ bucket if I remember correctly. I did away with the OEM bolt-on pump early on after too many failures and substituted for a Prince 7 gpm PTO slip-on pump, which I still use to this day in combination with the dozer.
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Lenbo wrote:
I do have a reservoir on the hoe, I am guess around 4 gallons.
Rule of thumb: One gallon of reservoir capacity for every GPM pump rating. So, if you have a 7 GPM pump then you should have a minimum 7 gallon reservoir.
You also need to know what the temperature of the oil is, guessing that it's 'hot” won't do. How hot is “hot”? Then we can go from there. Your return line is 3/4″ ID so any oil cooler must have the same size to avoid restriction and increased back pressure.
Filters are highly recommended in the return line. Here are a few of pics of the installation I did on my old LW-6.
I must also ask what you are using for hydraulic oil.
Pressure and temperature gauges.
Oil consistently ran at 160 – 180 degrees, and 2 -4 psig filter back pressure when hot.
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Fido wrote:
So, back to my initial inquiry, is it either/or for the factory stuff and the Cole Hersee kit?
Nope, you can have it both ways. The oil pressure transducers can be on a tee together. The temperature sensors can be installed in the “run” of a pipe tee where the coolant flow changes direction past the bulb, but usually there is a spare 1/2″NPT plug in the thermostat housing upstream of the thermostat toward the cylinder head.
Fido wrote:
Or am I over analizing.
Nope.
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You will have to use the cat. 2 cylinder because of the pin size (unless you bush it).
I think cat. 2 top link pins are 7/8″ or 1″, and cat. 1 pins are 3/4″. I would stick with the cat. 2 cylinder because the cat. 2 implements can get heavier, plus you've got a lot more power too – that's why the pins are bigger.
I had a 1-3/4″ x 7/8″ top link cylinder, worked fine for awhile until I found the “weak link”, which was the weldment on the rod eye – pulled it right apart. Have since installed a 2″ x 1-3/8″ cylinder with no problems, but I wish I had purchased the Dalton unit with the eye extension.
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Rich wrote:
I never think of it as beating a dead horse, I just call it tenderizing the meat!
Ahhhhh hahahahahahah! Beautiful!
Blue: just copy and paste the link.
http://www.ctoa.net/uploads/ne…..51030d.jpg
http://www.ctoa.net/uploads/ne…..57e405.jpg
http://www.ctoa.net/uploads/ne…..9afa94.jpg
http://www.ctoa.net/uploads/ne…..6c5ea5.jpg
or maybe the whole pic:
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Bluenoser wrote:
It is a pain huge pain trying to line up the top connection each time I want to change implements.
Oh that is so true
, that's why I went that way too. It should be noted that you cannot use the cylinder with the double pilot check valves in combination with the/a float function control valve.
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Fido wrote:
The Murphy kit sounds like the s*#@!
What does that mean??
Fido vents:
Obamanomics ya know.
Barak told me to tell you that any temperature sending unit or switch must be immersed in the coolant flow to be effective, and also that he is not to blame for you being on a tight budget.
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