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There isn’t anything available that I’m aware of that will dissolve dead bugs. If there was we would be using it, believe me. I have had to send men into the deep tanks once they were emptied and mucked out by hand once they were washed and vacuumed. I have personally witnessed those bugs bring a 10,000 hp diesel to it’s knees, with subsequent $24,000 damage to the fuel system. In another situation they almost caused the loss of a 600 psig steam plant because they were plugging the strainers to the burners that were firing at 30 gpm. If you do some research you’ll discover what a menace they are and the type of damage they can do. The trick is to keep your fuel clean and free of moisture. Keep your tank full if you aren’t going to use the tractor. Now, in your case you will have to thoroughly clean your tank, fuel lines, primary (sediment bowl screen and lift pump screens) and replace the secondary fuel filters before you put fresh fuel in. The live bugs are brown, dead ones are black, and you could have a combination of both. I don’t mean to be an alarmist but they are corrosive and can ruin your fuel injection pump and injectors.
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I recommend Hammond’s Biobor JF mainly from my experience from using it on ships, treating 110,000 gallon fuel tanks, and my personal fuel storage tank for my equipment. There may be slightly cheaper alternatives but I cannot personally vouch for them.
Hammond’s also has a test kit to determine if you actually need to treat your fuel.
This pic is of a fuel centrifuge sludge tank full of diesel bugs that were removed from fuel. Nasty. The red stuff is fuel.
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Here’s a quick read that will explain your issue. After you do as David suggests you will need to dose your fresh fuel with a biocide. Check for brown or black sludge.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microbial_contamination_of_diesel_fuel
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I don’t see a PM link or anything either. Used to be that there was a PM link in your profile. Guess Hal got a little too skittish and removed it. I thought “friending” might open one up, but nope.
If you click on someone’s profile there should be an orange “Add Friend” button you click and then it says “Friendship Pending”.
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I’m not sure, but I don’t think so. Maybe you can if you “friend” them first.
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As far as the new tach goes, what is the best way to confirm accuracy? There appears to be a pot for some type of adjustment on the back side.
If the tach you bought is for your tractor it is already calibrated and no adjustment is necessary, but a photo-tach would be your best bet if you felt the need. I compared my tach to a photo-tach and found the difference negligible. 1,800 r/m on the tach should give 540 r/m at the PTO.
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Where does the backhoe get the pressurized hydraulic fluid to operate? (does the backhoe have a self-contained hydraulic tank or does it get the hydraulic fluid from the tractor?) If from the tractor, where does it come from?
Some of the backhoes are completely self contained, meaning they have their own oil reservoir and have their own PTO mounted pump. This type of backhoe is usually mounted on the three point hitch.
Another type of backhoe utilizes the tractor’s hydraulic system, is usually frame mounted to the tractor, and connected hydraulically through quick-connect couplings.
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All the pumps are about the same pressure, so I assume you’re talking about the gpm flow rate. The stock pumps are 7 gpm and 2,300 psig if I recall. I had absolutely no problem operating my LW-06 back how with that pump.
So to answer your question , yes. BUT it depends on the distance between the end of your existing pump to the starter. The bigger pump is longer so you may not be able to install it.
I would consider David’s suggestions first.
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