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Rich & Tinbender wrote:
” Davids comments, while purported to be helpful, have been couched in language that comes across to me, (and evidently to Hal as well), as snide, condescending and demeaning”
That's my take. I would add egotistical and just flat out rude. My 2 cents.
Totally agree plus his posts took a lot of real estate, albeit was his “style”.
The new site is looking better every day. My hat's off to Hal
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I use a product called Iron Clad. Use it on cylinder rods and unpainted surfaces. Otherwise as Larry does.
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I just replaced my gauges with Murphy Switchgauges. Set lube oil to 10 psig and coolant to 200 degrees.
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David wrote:
I've got an oxy/acet. cutter, and a drill: but I could not make what Bluenoser did.
He installed longer blade lift cylinders. Pics are in the old forums.
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I haven't actually used it very hard yet, but the skid steer handles it like it's not even there. The rear door on the skid steer is made from ~3/4″ steel plate, therein lies the counterbalance. The outriggers on the hoe keep it very stable. This model skid steer weighs about 6,200 lbs., slightly less than the dozer.
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Jackpine wrote:
The question is this…. is there an adjustment on the spool valves, pressure at the control body, an adjustment on a pressure regulator, It has plenty of power to do what I want, I just need a “less sensitive” response at the handles.
Answer: No.
Here is a primer on hydraulic flow (speed) control.
http://www.hydraulicspneumatic…..ulicValves
The flow restrictor that Phil is using in his tilt cylinder is made of copper so the potential for wire-drawing damage (to the restrictor) isn't known. A flow restrictor will economically solve your problem of “jerkyness” without loss of power. If these are to be used with the ORFS fittings then I would have them made from steel with O-ring captures on both sides.
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I forgot about the root rake and manouvering, good points to remember. I would not add an oversized cutting edge. If your goal is to move larger amounts of material with a minimum amount of roll-out then I suggest you do a “U” mod to your blade instead. This can be accomplished using only 3/16″ AR-400 steel plate, and you will be much happier with it.
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David wrote:
….delete my account, if you would.
Actually that's not necessary. All you have to do is just go away. Nobody is going to chase you down and beg you to come back. That's what I did on the TBN Chinese tractor forum. Easy as pie, just don't go there.
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If you stop to think about it for a minute, 3″ x 5' is a lot of material and that amount is cubed every 12″ or so. The blade loads quickly which also gives down pressure, so you've got a lot going on in a short period of time. And if you're doing a nice finish grade then you're going slow and real busy on the hydraulics.
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